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Supermarket Cowboys
Peru’s biggest supermarket chain – Wong – plays up Fiestas Patrias in a big way, sponsoring patriotic events throughout Lima and featuring the “flavors of Peru” during the month-long season. The store’s colors are red and white, the colors of the Peruvian flag, but to celebrate the independence-day spirit during July, some employees wear outfits distinctive to Peru. The young men who bag your groceries wear these white ponchos with red scarves and big straw hats – the traditional costume of “el chalán,” the horse trainer or cowboy from northern Peru. (See photo of actual chalan, not in red and white, riding a horse in Lima, by Paul Ark, right).
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Red, White and No More Blue
This is an unusual July for me. Until this year, the most significant date on the calendar typically was July 4th – firecrackers, red white and blue, muy Americano. This year in Lima, July 4th was just another Friday. I didn’t even remember it was a holiday until a friend from Florida sent an email wishing me a Happy Fourth. It was thoughtful of her to remember her old friend in exile, but to be honest, the event felt insignificant here in the southern hemisphere. I tried to conjure that 4th of July feeling, and all that came to mind was grilled hot dogs – the smell of them, actually.…



