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An American in Lima

slices of my life in Peru (2007-14) and back again

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Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers, Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion, Peru's Andes Mountains, Traditions + Rituals, Water

Three-faced Ukuku, Guardian of the Glacier

In Andean culture, ukukus represent mythical bear-men who guard the glaciers at Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage and assist in other village rituals. Each year, young men volunteer to serve as their…

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2020/08/15
Art, Film, Music & Dance, Crossing Cultures, Peru's Andes Mountains

“Soy Andina” Now on YouTube

Back in 2008, I befriended a New York filmmaker who had made an intriguing documentary set in my newly adopted country. Mitch Teplitsky's "Soy Andina" traces the journeys of two…

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2020/08/13
Ancient Civilizations

Remembering Pachacamac

It was so long ago, Jorge was using actual film. He shot these three images in succession. It was 2008 or so, and Jorge, Sam and I went to the…

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2020/08/07
Art, Film, Music & Dance, Sounds of Lima

El loco y el mar

El Fotógrafo took this photo in 1989. He was walking along the Malecon, in Miraflores, when he saw a man standing on the cliffs, waving a stick back and forth…

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2015/12/30
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Goodbye, Pastoruri
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Peruvian Answer to Jewish Penicillin
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10 Facts about anderson cooper + his hair
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Photo of the Day: Callejón de Huaylas, Peru

    2009/07/22 /

    El Fotografo took this shot during the drive to Huaraz last week. It's of the Callejón de Huaylas ("Alley of Huaylas"), a valley in the Ancash Region in the north-central highlands of Peru. Glaciers all along the mountains there are melting due to rapid climate change.

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    Barbara

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    Pilgrims camping Qoyllur Rit'i 2008

    In Search of the Vanishing Snow Star

    2009/05/31

    I End up Doing the Whipping Dance

    2009/06/15

    Goodbye, Pastoruri

    2009/10/14
  • Art, Film, Music & Dance,  Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Child’s Artwork in Huaraz: Care for Our Water & Air

    2009/07/20 /

    We visited a school in Huaraz, where the children had created art works about the environment. Some showed melting glaciers, or apus -- mountain deities -- losing their "ponchos" (white snow). This child's picture depicts the need to care for our water and air.

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    Barbara

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    El Fotografo’s Works in Noche de Arte Benefit Sale

    2009/10/23

    Thoughts on Vargas Llosa’s Win

    2010/10/07

    Three Jacks Play Miami Tonight

    2009/10/17
  • Blogging & Social Media,  Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion,  Money, Economics, Politics,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Blogging about Greed and Injustice in Cusco

    2009/07/19 /

    Many thanks to Alenja and Holly of Collecting Tokens for including my rant on the archbishop of Cusco as a June “Just Post for a Just World.” The Just Posts roundtable highlights “posts about topics of social justice and activism in all shapes and sizes,” writes Alenja. She adds that “Holly and I are pleased to share this wealth of posts that inspire and move and make us think.” I am honored to be part of the June roundtable, and I encourage everyone to check out Collecting Tokens’ recommended readings. I’ll be adding that “Just Posts” logo to my left sidebar as soon as I figure out the code. 🙂

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    Barbara

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    Vote for Best Just Posts of 2009!

    2010/03/19

    Why Twitter from Peru?

    2009/05/25

    Writing on Bullfighting for HuffPo

    2010/02/23
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Sisters from Pucarumi — claimed by deadly cold spell?

    2009/07/18 /

    Spoke to Alberto last night, our guide at Qoyllur Rit'i and around the Mount Ausangate area. He told El Fotografo and I that he's heard of six children under age 5 dying in his area (towns of Tinqui, Upis, Pacchanta) due to extreme cold snap. The BBC ran a story on this several days ago. I met many children on my trek around Ausangate last September. Lively kids who run around in thin sweaters and sandals made of rubber tires.

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    Barbara

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    “All Hail the Glacier Gods”: El Fotografo’s MSNBC Pix of Qoyllur Rit’i

    2010/03/10

    Getting Our Bearings Back after Qoyllur Rit’i

    2009/06/11

    Peru’s Politicians Lock Horns with Scientists, Deny Crisis as Water Shortage Looms

    2009/07/24
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Photo of the Day: Boats at Lake Llanganuco, Peru

    2009/07/18 /

    We visited this lake in Huascaran National Park last Sunday. The turquoise-blue water is fed by glacier streams. Lots of trout in the lakes.

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    Barbara

    You May Also Like

    Peru’s Melting Glaciers on NBC News Tonight, 6:30 p.m.

    2009/12/08

    “All Hail the Glacier Gods”: El Fotografo’s MSNBC Pix of Qoyllur Rit’i

    2010/03/10
    Three-faced Ukuku by Jorge Vera 2006

    Three-faced Ukuku, Guardian of the Glacier

    2020/08/15
  • Peru's Andes Mountains

    250 Children Dead of Cold in Andes: Death Toll Keeps Climbing

    2009/07/16 /

    I was on Twitter tonight when I learned from actress Qorianka that the death toll in the Andes due to extreme cold is up to 250 children, reports the BBC's Dan Collyns....

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    Barbara

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    Soy Andina Film Premieres on New York PBS Tonight

    2009/09/20

    Deadly Negligence: Peru’s Red Cross & Cold Deaths in Andes

    2009/09/06

    Photo of the Day: Callejón de Huaylas, Peru

    2009/07/22
  • Animals in Peru,  Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Earthquakes

    Cemetery Dog, Buried City of Yungay, Peru

    2009/07/16 /

    Dog at Yungay National Cemetery; Mount Huascaran in background (photo by Barbara Drake 2009) Last Sunday, El Fotógrafo, El Híjo and I toured the cemetery above the buried town of Yungay, about 30 miles north of Huaraz. We were with a group of scientists and historians taking part in a glacier adaptation conference, and there couldn’t have been a more stark reminder of nature’s destructive potential than to wander about this picturesque yet oppressive site — a place where nearly 20,000 souls perished in minutes from a massive avalanche that trapped them in mud, ice and rocks on May 31, 1970. Stuart of En Peru explains the catastrophe vividly. We stood on the uppermost tier of…

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    Barbara

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    Lima Day Trip: Birding at La Punta

    2010/11/13

    Day at the Spa

    2009/09/29

    A Puppy Named Arena

    2009/11/23
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers

    Greetings from the Glacier Pow-wow

    2009/07/09 /

    The United States is doing a good, not-so-small thing in Peru by co-sponsoring (via USAID), with The Mountain Institute, an international conference in Lima and Huaraz on the topic of “Adapting to a World without Glaciers.” El Fotografo and I were graciously invited to be part of this effort, which brings together social scientists and biophysical scientists working on climate change. The idea is for all of these brilliant minds to come up with suggestions on how to cope with the pending water crisis in Peru. (Just to clarify: EF and I aren’t scientists. We just like to hang out with them.) So much to learn from these interesting people. El Hijo is coming…

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    Barbara

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    Photo of the Day: Callejón de Huaylas, Peru

    2009/07/22

    Getting Our Bearings Back after Qoyllur Rit’i

    2009/06/11
    Three-faced Ukuku by Jorge Vera 2006

    Three-faced Ukuku, Guardian of the Glacier

    2020/08/15
  • Daily Life in Lima,  Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion

    Supermarket Cowboys

    2009/07/07 /

    Peru’s biggest supermarket chain – Wong – plays up Fiestas Patrias in a big way, sponsoring patriotic events and featuring the “flavors of Peru” during the month-long season. The store’s colors are red and white, the colors of the Peruvian flag, but to celebrate the Independence Day spirit during July, some employees wear outfits distinctive to Peru. The young men who bag your groceries wear these white ponchos with red scarves and big straw hats – the traditional costume of el chalán, the horse trainer or cowboy from northern Peru. Peru is such a service-oriented country that the Wong bagmen will walk you home with your groceries, free of charge…

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    Barbara

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    Happy Father’s Day, Peru-style

    2009/06/20

    Conversations in the Gym

    2010/10/10

    Photo of the Day: Lavanderia San Antonio

    2010/03/22
  • Food & Dining,  Money, Economics, Politics

    Archbishop of Cusco to Evict More Local Restaurants

    2009/06/21 /

    Screw the locals, screw the poor, screw the backpackers, screw anyone who wants to eat healthy Peruvian food at decent prices.

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    Barbara

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    Peru’s Panettone Is Fake, Says Italy

    2009/12/11

    Peruvian ‘Viagra’ Soup: Does It Hoist Your Sail or Is It Just a Crock of Chupe?

    2009/06/18

    Trattoria Napoli: There’s No Place Like Home

    2010/09/03
  • Daily Life in Lima,  Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion

    Happy Father’s Day, Peru-style

    2009/06/20 /

    A tension has been building up all week in our house as Father’s Day approaches. This was a low-key holiday for us back in the States — El Hijo would make El Fotografo a card at the last minute, or I’d haul him off to the mall to buy an electric razor — but since moving to Peru in ’07, Father’s Day has grown into an Event. This change is partially due to the hoopla made by EH’s British-Peruvian school over Dia del Papá (and over Mother’s Day as well). From what I understand, this is common practice at schools in Lima. I’d always thought of Father’s Day as a family…

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    Barbara

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    Supermarket Cowboys

    2009/07/07

    Photo of the Day: Lavanderia San Antonio

    2010/03/22

    Conversations in the Gym

    2010/10/10
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion

    Photo of a Pilgrimage Leader

    2009/06/19 /

    "The Lord of Qoyllur Rit'i wants us to live together on this earth peacefully," he explained. "We travel to Qoyllur Rit'i in comparsas to learn to share, to stop being egotistical and hypocritical."

    Read More
    Barbara

    You May Also Like

    “All Hail the Glacier Gods”: El Fotografo’s MSNBC Pix of Qoyllur Rit’i

    2010/03/10
    Pilgrims camping Qoyllur Rit'i 2008

    In Search of the Vanishing Snow Star

    2009/05/31

    Getting Our Bearings Back after Qoyllur Rit’i

    2009/06/11
  • Food & Dining

    Peruvian ‘Viagra’ Soup: Does It Hoist Your Sail or Is It Just a Crock of Chupe?

    2009/06/18 /

    Yesterday's post on the medicinal powers of chilcano de pescado led to my discovering a Peruvian restaurant in Chicago that's serving up a traditional fish soup as a wonder aphrodesiac. Taste of Peru in Rogers Park is touting its seafood-crammed "Sopa de Viagra" as a "natural elixir to jump-start the love life," reports the Chicago Sun Times. And at $25 a serving, the lovers' soup competes with U.S. pharmacy prices for the little blue pill:

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    Barbara

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    Argentinean Doctor on Brink of Death after Eating Pickled Vizcacha

    2009/11/21

    Pizza at El Italiano: Two Thumbs Up

    2009/11/17

    AlmaZen Organic Cafe Thrives in Lima

    2009/08/04
  • Food & Dining

    Peru’s Answer to Jewish Penicillin: Chilcano de Pescado

    2009/06/17 /

    Chilcano de pescado, as made by Gaston Acurio I need my Jewish chicken-noodle soup in the wintertime. I grew up on the U.S. East Coast, where delis and diners and Jewish moms cook up barrels of this fragrant, healing soup all year long. Then I moved to Miami where at gourmet delis like Epicure, you can buy big jars of delicious matzoh-ball soup that will cure you overnight of colds, bronchitis, pneumonia. I’ve been restored from the Dead with homemade chicken soup glistening with beads of kosher chicken fat. Then, a year and a half ago, I moved to Peru where there are like, 3,000 Jews in the entire country and no…

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    Barbara

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    AlmaZen Organic Cafe Thrives in Lima

    2009/08/04

    Peru’s Panettone Is Fake, Says Italy

    2009/12/11

    Trattoria Napoli: There’s No Place Like Home

    2010/09/03
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About Me

After seven years in Peru, and a few more teaching in higher ed, I'm back to doing what I love: writing about human relationships, the planet and how we can ensure a better future for everyone, rich or poor. And I am still trying to unravel all of the remarkable things that happened to me when I was An American in Lima (2007-2014).

Click Below to Read More About…

  • Ancient Civilizations
  • Animals in Peru
  • Art, Film, Music & Dance
  • Blogging & Social Media
  • Bullfighting
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers
  • Crossing Cultures
  • Daily Life in Lima
  • Earthquakes
  • Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion
  • Food & Dining
  • Handmade Culture
  • Language
  • Looking Back at the United States
  • Maids
  • Melted Away book
  • Money, Economics, Politics
  • Peru's Andes Mountains
  • Race Matters
  • Repatriation
  • Repatriation
  • Sounds of Lima
  • Sports
  • Traditions + Rituals
  • Traffic & Accidents in Lima
  • Water
  • What's up with the Weather Down There?

Recent Comments

  • Giancarlo on First Post in Four Years
  • Barbara on First Post in Four Years
  • Pico on First Post in Four Years
  • Barbara on U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing
  • Sarah on U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing
  • El Tonto de la Colina on U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing
  • Barbara on A Peruvian (non)Thanksgiving Epiphany
  • Barbara on Expat Bloggers Agree: Don’t Drink Tap Water in Peru

What An American in Lima Is Talking About…

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