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slices of my life in Peru (2007-14) and back again

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Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers, Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion, Peru's Andes Mountains, Traditions + Rituals, Water

Three-faced Ukuku, Guardian of the Glacier

In Andean culture, ukukus represent mythical bear-men who guard the glaciers at Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage and assist in other village rituals. Each year, young men volunteer to serve as their…

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2020/08/15
Art, Film, Music & Dance, Crossing Cultures, Peru's Andes Mountains

“Soy Andina” Now on YouTube

Back in 2008, I befriended a New York filmmaker who had made an intriguing documentary set in my newly adopted country. Mitch Teplitsky's "Soy Andina" traces the journeys of two…

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2020/08/13
Ancient Civilizations

Remembering Pachacamac

It was so long ago, Jorge was using actual film. He shot these three images in succession. It was 2008 or so, and Jorge, Sam and I went to the…

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2020/08/07
Art, Film, Music & Dance, Sounds of Lima

El loco y el mar

El Fotógrafo took this photo in 1989. He was walking along the Malecon, in Miraflores, when he saw a man standing on the cliffs, waving a stick back and forth…

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2015/12/30
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Goodbye, Pastoruri
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Peruvian Answer to Jewish Penicillin
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10 Facts about anderson cooper + his hair
  • Art, Film, Music & Dance

    Mario Vargas Llosa Wins Nobel Lit Prize

    2010/10/07 /

    Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa has won the 2010 Nobel Prize in Literature, the Academy in Stockholm announced early today. Vargas Llosa has written more than 30 novels, essays and plays, including Conversation in the Cathedral, Feast of the Goat and Death in the Andes. He’s racked up scores of literary honors, including Spain’s highest, the Cervantes Prize, in 1995, but the Nobel eluded him for decades, probably, many believe, because of his right-leaning political identity. (See article from Christian Science Monitor here.) A former leftist, Vargas Llosa gradually embraced economic liberalism and was an outspoken critic of Peru’s two-term president Alberto Fujimori, who shut down Congress and the judiciary…

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    Barbara

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    “Soy Andina” Now on YouTube

    2020/08/13

    U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing

    2011/03/07

    Soy Andina Film Premieres on New York PBS Tonight

    2009/09/20
  • Food & Dining

    Trattoria Napoli: There’s No Place Like Home

    2010/09/03 /

    Nearly every large city in South America has at least one or two very good, if not excellent, Italian restaurants.   What every city does not have is an authentic Italian trattoria — a mid-priced, family-run restaurant that serves delicious, regional  dishes  in a casual, home-like setting. Lima’s Trattoria Napoli does just that, serving up first-rate southern Italian fare in a sliver of a building tucked in no-frills Surquillo.  The trattoria is truly a family business:  The owner’s from Calabria (the toe of the boot), his wife keeps the tiramisu in the fridge next-door, and the ponytailed son-in-law can often be found munching on gnocchi with the grandkids at a nearby…

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    Barbara

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    A Peruvian (non)Thanksgiving Epiphany

    2010/11/26

    Argentinean Doctor on Brink of Death after Eating Pickled Vizcacha

    2009/11/21

    Archbishop of Cusco to Evict More Local Restaurants

    2009/06/21
  • Daily Life in Lima,  Looking Back at the United States

    Photo of the Day: Lavanderia San Antonio

    2010/03/22 /

    I took this photo a few days ago when I was walking Lola. It was 8:30 a.m., and I figured that the dry cleaners would be open at that hour but it wasn’t.  One of the women who works at the front counter was sitting outside the locked metal doors, waiting for the manager to open. Come back at 9, she said. I use the Lavanderia San Antonio because they do a good job and they’re cheap and the workers are nice. Sometimes dry cleaning people can be unhelpful or sullen, even ornery. I noticed this in the United States, and it’s true in Peru too. Maybe it’s all those toxic chemicals…

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    Barbara

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    Supermarket Cowboys

    2009/07/07

    Conversations in the Gym

    2010/10/10

    Happy Father’s Day, Peru-style

    2009/06/20
  • Blogging & Social Media,  Money, Economics, Politics,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Vote for Best Just Posts of 2009!

    2010/03/19 /

    A few days ago, I received a pleasant surprise:  two of my blog posts have been nominated for the Best of 2009 Just Posts.  Just Posts for a Just World is a highly readable monthly roundtable of blog posts on social-justice issues from around the world.  It’s curated by Holly at Cold Spaghetti and Alejna at Collecting Tokens, who wade through the blogosphere each month to find personal posts that “speak to the same thing — the lifting up of our planet and all that inhabit it.”  The typical Just Post is candid and compassionate and outspoken, and reads like a real person speaking his/her own mind.  I like that. I’m…

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    Barbara

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    Why Twitter from Peru?

    2009/05/25

    Writing on Bullfighting for HuffPo

    2010/02/23

    Thanks for Shout Out, NatGeo

    2009/08/06
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion

    “All Hail the Glacier Gods”: El Fotografo’s MSNBC Pix of Qoyllur Rit’i

    2010/03/10 /

    Back in December, msnbc.com published a photo story on Qoyllur Rit’i and global warming, with photos by El Fotógrafo and captions by yours truly. I neglected to provide the link to that slide show, which includes some of EF’s strongest images of the dangerous (and endangered) glacier pilgrimage, so here it is, belatedly: “Peru’s Disappearing Holy Glacier.” This photo, above, of a veteran ukuku is one of my favorites. The guy must be about 40 years old, but exposure to the harsh Andean elements has made his face a craggy moraine field. Most of the ukukus at QR are in their late teens and early 20s; you don’t see a lot of…

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    Barbara

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    Photo of the Day: Boats at Lake Llanganuco, Peru

    2009/07/18
    Three-faced Ukuku by Jorge Vera 2006

    Three-faced Ukuku, Guardian of the Glacier

    2020/08/15

    Video: In Peru, melting glaciers lead to water wars

    2009/12/09
  • Earthquakes

    How to Prepare for an Earthquake in a Third World Country

    2010/02/28 /

    The devastating 8.8-magnitude earthquake that ravaged Chile on Saturday could easily have happened here in Lima or anywhere else along the Pacific coast.  Sooner or later another big one will hit Peru, as one did in July 2007, and there are only a few ways to increase your odds that you won’t get killed when it happens. Living in a well-constructed, “earthquake-proof” home is the best way to protect yourself. I put quotation marks around that phrase because no structure is guaranteed to withstand the most violent earthquakes. Still, as engineer Andy Johnson notes, a well engineered building should hold up long enough for the people inside to escape before it…

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    Barbara

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    The Three Jacks & Breffni Dancers Conquer Peru

    2009/05/22

    Cemetery Dog, Buried City of Yungay, Peru

    2009/07/16

    Three Jacks Play Miami Tonight

    2009/10/17
  • Blogging & Social Media,  Bullfighting,  Crossing Cultures

    Writing on Bullfighting for HuffPo

    2010/02/23 /

    I’ve been away from An American in Lima for a little while (understatement) but thanks to my friend Levi Novey, aka Mr Green HuffPost, I’m getting a bigtime nudge to return to blogging. Which I do love doing, by the way. Levi let me hijack his column today to guest rant about bullfighting (The Twisted Temptations of Bullfighting in Peru). It’s a confession about the thing I experienced at Acho that I never wrote about before. Call it my testosterone moment in the bullring. The column includes nice photos by El Fotografo, by the way. I only went to the bullfights twice in Lima but I still think about what…

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    Barbara

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    Why Twitter from Peru?

    2009/05/25

    Thanks for Shout Out, NatGeo

    2009/08/06

    Vote for Best Just Posts of 2009!

    2010/03/19
  • Food & Dining,  Money, Economics, Politics

    Peru’s Panettone Is Fake, Says Italy

    2009/12/11 /

    Peruvians and  Brazilians love their locally-made panettone, an Italian-style Christmas cake that’s grown into a multimillion-dollar business for bakers in South America. Now the Italian Cake Industry group wants nonItalian manufacturers to conform to strict baking standards or stop calling their cakes “panettone,” reports Reuters: Keep Christmas cake Italian, panettone makers say Dec 12, 2007 ROME (Reuters) – Italy already has strict rules governing the origin and quality of its wine, while Parmigiano parmesan cheese can only be made in Parma and regulations on “Italian” olive oil are being tightened. Now Christmas cake has become the latest product that the government and manufacturers want to protect from foreign imitations. Italian bakers produce…

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    Barbara

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    Peruvian ‘Viagra’ Soup: Does It Hoist Your Sail or Is It Just a Crock of Chupe?

    2009/06/18

    Thank You, Lord of the Miraculous Chocolates

    2009/10/30

    Argentinean Doctor on Brink of Death after Eating Pickled Vizcacha

    2009/11/21
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Video: “Peru’s future depends on mountains”

    2009/12/09 /

    [Note: This MSNBC video is no longer available as of August 2020] Jorge Recharte, Andes program director for the Mountain Institute, eloquently explains the special bond between Peru’s people and her mountains. This relationship has shaped 5,000 years of culture in both the coast and the sierra and will determine Peru’s future,  says Recharte in this video featured on msnbc.com: Visit msnbc.com for breaking news, world news, and news about the economy

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    Barbara

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    Photo of a Pilgrimage Leader

    2009/06/19

    Peru’s Melting Glaciers on NBC News Tonight, 6:30 p.m.

    2009/12/08

    Peru’s Politicians Lock Horns with Scientists, Deny Crisis as Water Shortage Looms

    2009/07/24
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Video: In Peru, melting glaciers lead to water wars

    2009/12/09 /

    Here is the link: In Peru, melting glaciers lead to water wars Visit msnbc.com for breaking news, world news, and news about the economy The video aired on NBC Nightly News on December 8. I was the field producer for the NBC news team.

    Read More
    Barbara

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    Photo of the Day: Boats at Lake Llanganuco, Peru

    2009/07/18

    Goodbye, Pastoruri

    2009/10/14
    Pilgrims camping Qoyllur Rit'i 2008

    In Search of the Vanishing Snow Star

    2009/05/31
  • Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion

    Happy Non-insemination of the Virgin Mary’s Mother Day!

    2009/12/08 /

    Happy Immaculate Conception Day! Did you think that this was the day that Mary did (not) get shtuped by Joseph and Jesus was immaculately conceived? I did. I even tweeted about it, erroneously. Thank god for Wikipedia and the efforts of reporters on the religion beat. Because it turns out that December 8 is the feast of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, whose birthday is celebrated September 8 and whose own conception is said to fall nine months earlier, on today’s date. As one Wikipedia contributor ponderously points, the Virgin Mary’s “immaculate conception in the womb of her mother, through sexual intercourse, should not be confused with the…

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    Barbara

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    Happy, Fiestas Patrias, Peru!

    2009/07/28

    Getting Our Bearings Back after Qoyllur Rit’i

    2009/06/11

    A Peruvian (non)Thanksgiving Epiphany

    2010/11/26
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers,  Peru's Andes Mountains

    Peru’s Melting Glaciers on NBC News Tonight, 6:30 p.m.

    2009/12/08 /

    Tonight NBC Nightly News airs a special report on Peru’s melting glaciers and their downstream effects. (Click here for times and stations across the United States.) Tune in to see footage of dying Pastoruri Glacier and to hear correspondent Anne Thompson talk with experts on how Peru is struggling to adapt to a world without glaciers, a scenario that may be realized within the next quarter century. Kudos to the NBC environmental news team for bringing this important story to the attention of U.S. viewers during Copenhagen 15. What happening in Peru is dramatic evidence of the catastrophic effects of global warming and rapid climate change. And although people in North America…

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    Barbara

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    Photo of the Day: Our Campsite at Qoyllur Rit’i

    2009/06/16

    “All Hail the Glacier Gods”: El Fotografo’s MSNBC Pix of Qoyllur Rit’i

    2010/03/10

    Greetings from the Glacier Pow-wow

    2009/07/09
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers

    NBC Nightly News to Report on Peru’s Melting Glaciers and Water Crisis Next Week

    2009/12/01 /

    A heads-up to viewers in the United States: My sources at NBC Nightly News tell me that an investigative report on Peru’s pending water crisis will air on the show next Tuesday, Dec. 8, at 6:30 p.m. EST in many states. (Click here for state-by-state air times.)  NBC Nightly News crew films Anne Thompson’s interview with community leaders near Huaraz who are fighting to retain water rights (Oct. 2009) Environmental news correspondent Anne Thompson explores the accelerating retreat of tropical glaciers in Peru and the downstream effects of dwindling melt-water on agriculture, hydroelectricity and drinking water supplies for highlanders and coastal dwellers. Peru is among the three countries in the world most…

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    Barbara

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    Sisters from Pucarumi — claimed by deadly cold spell?

    2009/07/18

    I End up Doing the Whipping Dance

    2009/06/15

    Greetings from the Glacier Pow-wow

    2009/07/09
  • Bullfighting

    Confessions of a Redhead in the Callejón: What I Learned at the Bullfights

    2009/11/29 /

    November 29’s corrida marked the penultimate bullfight of the Señor de los Milagros festival, held in Lima’s historic Plaza de Acho bullring. The last day to see bullfighting in Peru’s capital is December 6, next Sunday. (Ticket information here.) My husband, El Fotografo, and I haven’t gone to any of the corridas this year, and we don’t plan to. EF is grossed out by bullfighting, even though he admits the sport makes for great picture-taking, especially when you have permission to stand inside the callejón, as we did last November. (The callejón is the low-walled alley surrounding the bullring where the toreros enter and exit the sand circle or ruedo. Occasionally a bull will leap or knock over the wooden wall, injuring…

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    Barbara

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    Writing on Bullfighting for HuffPo

    2010/02/23
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About Me

After seven years in Peru, and a few more teaching in higher ed, I'm back to doing what I love: writing about human relationships, the planet and how we can ensure a better future for everyone, rich or poor. And I am still trying to unravel all of the remarkable things that happened to me when I was An American in Lima (2007-2014).

Click Below to Read More About…

  • Ancient Civilizations
  • Animals in Peru
  • Art, Film, Music & Dance
  • Blogging & Social Media
  • Bullfighting
  • Climate Change & Disappearing Glaciers
  • Crossing Cultures
  • Daily Life in Lima
  • Earthquakes
  • Festivals, Sacred Rituals, Religion
  • Food & Dining
  • Handmade Culture
  • Language
  • Looking Back at the United States
  • Maids
  • Melted Away book
  • Money, Economics, Politics
  • Peru's Andes Mountains
  • Race Matters
  • Repatriation
  • Repatriation
  • Sounds of Lima
  • Sports
  • Traditions + Rituals
  • Traffic & Accidents in Lima
  • Water
  • What's up with the Weather Down There?

Recent Comments

  • Giancarlo on First Post in Four Years
  • Barbara on First Post in Four Years
  • Pico on First Post in Four Years
  • Barbara on U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing
  • Sarah on U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing
  • El Tonto de la Colina on U.S. Embassy to Tourists in Peru: Don’t Confuse Political Protests with Folk Dancing
  • Barbara on A Peruvian (non)Thanksgiving Epiphany
  • Barbara on Expat Bloggers Agree: Don’t Drink Tap Water in Peru

What An American in Lima Is Talking About…

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