An American in Lima » Wong supermarket

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Buy Frisium Without Prescription, Deli counter, Wong supermarket, Miraflores; photo c. Barbara Drake 2008

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How to (Maybe) Cure a Lima Chest Cold

Barbara — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:03:18 +0000

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El Fotografo can't kick this chest cold he's been suffering with for three weeks. Not even the schlep to Santa Eulalia last weekend could knock it out of his system. So I decided to try a home remedy on him that I read about in Suite 101. Now EF's lying in bed swathed in poultices and blankets, just four feet away from me, and the room reeks of Indian food. Let me explain. Earlier this morning I read about this great mustard plaster (also known as a "poultice") you can make to get rid of lingering chest congestion. That home remedy sounded right for what's ailing EF: For three weeks he's been taking Robitussin and Paltomiel (a Peruvian homeopathic cough syrup), drinking hot tea with honey and popping vitamin Cs to no effect. Something stronger (stranger?) was in order. The mustard plaster recipe caught my eye because I remember as a kid seeing a movie in which some orphaned kids who live in the country subject their sick landlord (played by Harry Dean Stanton) to an intense cure involving a poultice of hot cooked onions. The film is based on the classic children's novel Where the Lilies Bloom, by Bill and Vera Cleaver, and that onion scene has always stayed with me. In that scene Stanton's character, whose name is Kaiser Pease, is on his deathbed wearing these tragic-looking long-johns, and the orphans give him a bath in the onions, long-johns and all.

Kaiser Pease getting his onion poultice in Where the Lilies Bloom (1974 film)

The treatment works, Kaiser lives, and I think he marries the oldest girl (the one with the brown hair in the film still). EF isn't as sick as Kaiser Pease, but I figured a stinky poultice might have a transformative effect on him. Now comes the part of the story where it gets that Lima twist. The recipe for a mustard plaster calls for mustard powder. You mix it with flour and hot water, and the hot water activates the mustard's chemical compounds, creating a thick paste that heats up on its own. You can't use prepared mustard out of a squeeze bottle. (I searched that on Google too.) It has to be dried mustard powder or mustard seeds that you grind yourself. Supermarkets in the United States carry mustard powder, but this being Peru, I wasn't sure Wong would have it. As I found out this morning, they don't. "Ah," one employee told me, "Cordon Bleu makes polvo de mostaza." He smiled. "Sorry, we don't carry that brand." After searching ten more minutes among the spices, I found a jar of Badia curry powder, which contains powdered mustard. That was the closest I'd come, I decided. "Why not aji?" the Wong employee asked. I bought a packet of that for good measure. So now EF's been lying here for half an hour with a towelful of curry/aji paste tucked under his t-shirt. The curry mixture didn't get extremely hot like the mustard paste is supposed to, but it did warm his chest. Prior to applying the poultice, I smeared him with olive oil so the spices wouldn't irritate his skin. The instructions said to do that. EF is hacking up mucus. "It's working," he says. "I wasn't coughing up anything before." We just peeled off the poultice. I wiped off the oil on his chest with a napkin. It came away bright yellow, the color of mustard and tumeric and aji. Yikes. He's been curried. Update on EF's grippe (Sat.): The curry plaster helped a bit, but not enough. The next day I hauled EF to the reliable cevicheria Punto Azul to get him some chupe pescado (fish soup) with aji and lime juice added. That helped open things up. Later that night, he steamed his head over a bowl of hot water and eucalyptus oil, which made him feel a lot better. He's been doing that regularly and was well enough today to have a meeting in San Isidro.

El Chalan on the Street

Barbara — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:10:16 +0000

Today I took Lola for a walk and bumped into this Wong supermarket employee pushing a shopping cart along the street. He was on his way back from bringing a customer's groceries to her house, a free service that the store offers. Check out the chic Fiestas Patrias outfit: white poncho, red scarf and broad-brimmed straw hat -- the traditional gear of the northern Peruvian cowboy. Wong bagboys wear these getups through July 28, Peru's Independence Day. Maybe supermarkets in the United States could adopt this trend. What kind of "typically American" gear might the checkout people wear for 4th of July? Labor Day?

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Barbara — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 14:29:15 +0000

Buy Frisium Without Prescription, Deli counter, Wong supermarket, Miraflores; photo c. Barbara Drake 2008

How to (Maybe) Cure a Lima Chest Cold

Barbara — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:03:18 +0000

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Kaiser Pease getting his onion poultice in Where the Lilies Bloom (1974 film)

El Chalan on the Street

Barbara — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:10:16 +0000

Supermarket Cowboys

Barbara — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 14:29:15 +0000

Buy Frisium Without Prescription, Deli counter, Wong supermarket, Miraflores; photo c. Barbara Drake 2008

An American in Lima » Wong supermarket

Barbara — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 14:29:15 +0000

Buy Frisium Without Prescription, Deli counter, Wong supermarket, Miraflores; photo c. Barbara Drake 2008

How to (Maybe) Cure a Lima Chest Cold

Barbara — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:03:18 +0000

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Kaiser Pease getting his onion poultice in Where the Lilies Bloom (1974 film)

El Chalan on the Street

Barbara — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:10:16 +0000

Supermarket Cowboys

Barbara — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:03:18 +0000

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Kaiser Pease getting his onion poultice in Where the Lilies Bloom (1974 film)

An American in Lima » Wong supermarket

Barbara — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 14:29:15 +0000

Buy Frisium Without Prescription, Deli counter, Wong supermarket, Miraflores; photo c. Barbara Drake 2008

How to (Maybe) Cure a Lima Chest Cold

Barbara — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:03:18 +0000

Sr. Mostazo

Kaiser Pease getting his onion poultice in Where the Lilies Bloom (1974 film)

El Chalan on the Street

Barbara — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:10:16 +0000

Supermarket Cowboys

Barbara — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:10:16 +0000

An American in Lima » Wong supermarket

Barbara — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 14:29:15 +0000

Buy Frisium Without Prescription, Deli counter, Wong supermarket, Miraflores; photo c. Barbara Drake 2008

How to (Maybe) Cure a Lima Chest Cold

Barbara — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:03:18 +0000

Sr. Mostazo

Kaiser Pease getting his onion poultice in Where the Lilies Bloom (1974 film)

El Chalan on the Street

Barbara — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 23:10:16 +0000

Supermarket Cowboys

Barbara — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 19:07:14 +0000

Peru's biggest supermarket chain – Wong – plays up Fiestas Patrias in a big way, sponsoring patriotic events throughout Lima and featuring the "flavors of Peru" during the month-long season. The store's colors are red and white, the colors of the Peruvian flag, but to celebrate the independence-day spirit during July, some employees wear outfits distinctive to Peru. The young men who bag your groceries wear these white ponchos with red scarves and big straw hats – the traditional costume of "el chalán," the horse trainer or cowboy from northern Peru. (See photo of actual chalan, not in red and white, riding a horse in Lima, by Paul Ark, right). Peru is such a service-oriented country that the Wong bagmen will walk you home with your groceries, free of charge (they're probably glad to escape temporarily from the store). We live two blocks from a Wong and usually go there on foot. It's invigorating to step into a busy Lima intersection flanked by a guy dressed like an expert horse wrangler, his white cape fluttering as he and you dodge the suicidal combi buses. (Toro, toro.) El Fotógrafo, El Híjo and I moved from Florida to Peru on July 12 of last year. I was clueless about Fiestas Patrias then; my main focus was adjusting to the shock of its being winter in July. My memories of that first month are of being horribly cold and buying lots of alpaca sweaters and gloves and talking nonstop about la clima en Lima. I had sympathy for old people and empathized acutely with one of my husband's elderly relatives, an 80-year-old woman who huddled in a wheelchair during family gatherings and was always complaining about "el frío." I hear you, sister, I'd be thinking. In addition to stocking up on more chompas than I had room for in my tiny closet, I also spent time at Wong browsing for ingredients to make hot chocolate – anything to thaw my blood. That first month, I assumed the Wong bagmen wore those cute outfits all year round. It was a letdown in August when the baggers switched to their standard uniforms. The button-down shirts and trousers and red caps looked so drab. I missed the cowboy getup. Now it's July again. Viva Fiestas Patrias!