Ha ha. Not.

Spent yesterday waiting for the tsunami to hit the coast of Lima.  Reports on RPP news put it at 6:00, then 7:45 p.m. , then 8:30 p.m.

"The head of the National Penitentiary Institute [INPE], retired general Wilson Hernandez, confirmed that indeed the founder of Shining Path, Abimael Guzmán, and Fujimori's "strong man," Vladimiro Montesinos, were evacuated from the Callao Naval Base in precautionary measures taken for a possible tsunami."

It was in May 2000, when Fujimori was storming his way to a third presidential term, and protesters all throughout Lima, as well as the rest of the country, were clashing with police.

El Híjo, El Fotógrafo and I were at a leather store in downtown Lima, three blocks from the presidential palace, when people started yelling in the street. One minute it was a quiet, gray Lima morning, and the next minute groups of men were hurling rocks at policemen in the intersection.

EF and I grabbed our two-year-old son and somehow managed to escape in a cab before the violence escalated. I held El Híjo's head so he wouldn't look backward through the window to see what was happening.

We ended up at a restaurant in Chinatown and watched the riot on TV as we ate our noodles.

We could have so easily been trapped in the middle of it.

WARDEN MESSAGE: ELECTIONS 2011 The U.S. Embassy advises travelers that there may be increased political demonstrations in the lead up to the April 10 presidential and congressional elections and, if there is a run-off, the second round of elections on June 5. It is illegal in Peru for foreigners to participate in demonstrations. If you take part, you may be arrested. American Citizens previously have been arrested after inadvertently joining in political protests and demonstrations that appeared to be folk festivals. Demonstrations in Peru are often, but not always, peaceful and can quickly escalate into violent confrontations. American citizens are advised to avoid large crowds and demonstrations and strongly encouraged to maintain a high level of vigilance, maintain awareness of local events and their surroundings, and take the appropriate steps to bolster their personal security.

I came across this 30-spot by PromPeru while searching online for poetry in Quechua. The actors speak a few lines in the language of the Incas (still spoken by millions of Andean people today), where can i find Valium online, Buy Valium without prescription, with the text subtitled in Quechua and Spanish. As the clouds part to reveal Machu Picchu at sunrise, Valium price, Online buy Valium without a prescription, a voiceover intones in English, "Pack your six senses, order Valium no prescription. Buy cheap Valium no rx, Come to Peru, Land of the Incas."

It's mystical and hokey and, purchase Valium online no prescription, Where can i buy Valium online, by god, it's a brilliant sell, online buying Valium. Purchase Valium online no prescription, It makes me forget the dizziness, the lack of oxygen, rx free Valium, Buy Valium online no prescription, the incredible shlepping that traveling in the Andes involves.

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Tony of HowToPeru has posted a useful survey piece on whether it's safe to drink the tap water in Peru (Drinking Water in Peru: Safe or Unsound?).

I'm glad that Tony put together this piece, because there's little perception -- both abroad and internally -- of Peru's abysmally poor water quality, which fails to meet WHO standards.  Yes, tourists do need to know that they cannot drink from the faucet, Buy Ultram Without Prescription. PromPeru doesn't advertise this fact, buy Ultram online cod, Where can i find Ultram online, and Peruvians make light of the issue, although medical groups that help travelers do categorize Peru's water as "contaminated."

For me, where can i buy Ultram online, Buy Ultram no prescription, it's the No. 1 thing I dread about having visitors from abroad; about half of my friends who've visited Peru have, Ultram over the counter, Where can i find Ultram online, at some point, mistakenly ingested tap water and been laid up in the bedroom with a day or two of the runs, order Ultram no prescription. Buy Ultram online no prescription, It has ruined several of their vacations, and I can't blame them for being mad, australia, uk, us, usa, canada, mexico, india, craiglist, ebay. Ultram over the counter, Who wants to spend thousands on airfare & lodgings only to spend most of one's time on the toilet. Buy Ultram Without Prescription, But the contaminated water supply affects more than tourists; it is bad for Peruvians. The rich may be able to afford high-quality bottled water, order Ultram online c.o.d, Ultram pharmacy, but 80 percent of Peruvians don't have that luxury.  Several million Limeños have no water service at all. Working-class Peruvians are washing their hands and clothes in whatever water they can find -- and those hands prepare food in restaurants, Ultram price, Ultram for sale, change money on the streets, take care of children in people's houses.  Peruvians of all income levels regularly get intestinal parasites -- and it takes only a second for that threat to pass from one's hands to the food supply, online buying Ultram. Purchase Ultram online, That constitutes a public health threat, one that the government does not take seriously, Ultram samples. Buy cheap Ultram, Even if government officials and upper-class Peruvians don't care about the health of average Peruvians, don't they see that it compromises their own as well, online buy Ultram without a prescription.

I am not speaking abstractly.  Among our friends -- most of whom have plenty of money, compared to the average Peruvian -- I can name seven people who have told me, over the last three years, that they had to be treated for parasites, Buy Ultram Without Prescription. Buy Ultram online cod, (This includes our landlord, a conservative Limeno from a so-called good family.) They weren't terribly concerned about it -- it's part of living in Peru, rx free Ultram, Ultram from canadian pharmacy, they told me. The problem was easy to diagnose; they went to one of the labs you see on street corners (such as Rodelab), buy cheap Ultram no rx, Buy generic Ultram, paid 20 soles for a test, took the results for a doctor and bought a cheap prescription at a drugstore, buy Ultram from canada. Most felt better in a week or two, but some didn't fare as well.

One Frenchwoman who was teaching at a local high school lost 20 pounds over the course of a month. Buy Ultram Without Prescription, She kept teaching during that time, and she kept complaining of how tired she was. Finally, she got tested, found out she had worms, took the medicines and spent four months getting better, all while teaching. We were all concerned about her, but the Limeños did not see it as a serious threat; most of them had gone through similar experiences, several times, in their lives. C'est la vie.

I strongly disagree with this perspective, and I refuse to become jaded. It is not acceptable for human beings to contract parasites through their water and food supplies, Buy Ultram Without Prescription. Pooh on Garcia and his "agua para todos" platform, which might as well be, "a little contaminated water for everyone."  What Peruvians deserve is clean tap water free of e-coli, parasites and heavy metal runoff from the mining operations that pollute the water sources up in the Andes.

Have I been gotten sick from Peru's water. No. I never drink tap water, I only eat salads at restaurants I know very well, and any time I find myself wondering, 'Is it safe to eat/drink?'  I don't touch it. Just to be sure, I do the Rodelab tests every year to make sure I don't have parasites. Call me paranoid. But so far, knock on wood, my system's worked. I only wish this country could join the rest of the developed world and make its water safe for everyone.

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[caption id="attachment_2385" align="aligncenter" width="319" caption="A cuy (guinea pig) dressed up like a pilgrim. Don't ask me who dreams up these cards. "][/caption]

I was feeling unexpectedly sad yesterday morning, buy Xanax from mexico. Buy Xanax Without Prescription, It was my third Non-Thanksgiving Day in Peru, and you think I would have gotten over it, but I hadn't.

Well, as Joni Mitchell once said, "You don't know what you've got 'til it's gone."

I found myself missing Thanksgiving yesterday and realizing what it is that is so resoundingly good about the holiday -- all that stuff that I had overlooked before, Buy Xanax Without Prescription. Thanksgiving is not commercial, buy Xanax without a prescription. It's not about buying stuff. Xanax over the counter, It's about making real food by hand and eating with your family and asking them how they're doing.

In other words, it is what America used to be, buy Xanax from mexico, at least though the 1970s. Buy Xanax Without Prescription, So I was feeling mopey yesterday, and so was El Fotógrafo. Xanax price, He was born in Peru but lived in the U.S. for 25 years so he is deeply Americanized, to the point that some of his relatives now call him a gringo, buy no prescription Xanax online, and that's not a compliment. Buy Xanax online cod, El Fotógrafo makes kickass homemade mashed potatoes and can cook a turkey perfectly, plus carve it really thin without the turkey flying off the carving board. When we lived in Florida, purchase Xanax online no prescription, he and I made the Thanksgiving meal together each year. We would have cooked a turkey yesterday, except I didn't have the day off from teaching, and Thanksgiving dinner needs at least 24 hours' preparation, Buy Xanax Without Prescription. Rx free Xanax, The saddest thing about going to teach yesterday was that no one at UPC, besides me, cared that it was Thanksgiving, australia, uk, us, usa, canada, mexico, india, craiglist, ebay.

EF gave me a hug before I went off to teach, Buy cheap Xanax, and all yesterday morning I felt mopier and then, grumpier. All my friends and relatives in the States were eating stuffing and turkey, buy Xanax online no prescription, and I was missing Thanksgiving. Where can i buy Xanax online, Screw Peru. Buy Xanax Without Prescription, Screw the university.

I would have kept on digging deeper in that trench except Peru snapped me out it.

I went to a nearby restaurant to eat lunch, Xanax from canadian pharmacy. I was by myself, Xanax samples, as usual. Inside the restaurant, there were all these large groups of Peruvians --  office workers, buy Xanax no prescription, professors from UPC -- eating together.  What struck me, looking at these jovial groups, was how generally pleased these people seemed at being able to sit together for an hour and chat and eat and laugh their heads off, Buy Xanax Without Prescription. Where can i find Xanax online, Peruvians love to laugh. They love to tell jokes (except the sourest academics) and they love, love to eat, online buy Xanax without a prescription.

It wasn't like those office lunches I used to have with my coworkers in the U.S. Order Xanax no prescription, -- slightly awkward, hurried affairs with people glancing at their watches, afraid of being late to the office.  In general, online buying Xanax, Peruvians like being with each other and make time every day for relaxing almuerzo, Order Xanax, whether at work or at their homes. Buy Xanax Without Prescription, They also (in general) like being with their families. Most Peruvians spend Sunday afternoon at a big family almuerzo and not only do they not resent it, they (gulp) like it. The food is made (generally) by hand -- by an empleada or by the family itself. After the meal, people hang out and talk and maybe go for a walk in the neighborhood, and that's considered a successful day.  And people are (generally) thankful for what they have -- food, time to relax, each other.

I was thinking about this yesterday, as I observed the Peruvians very pointedly not observing "my" American holiday. And it occured to me: They didn't need it.

In their own quiet, un-remarked-upon way, Peruvians do celebrate Thanksgiving -- They do so every day of lives. Only they call it "living.".

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Congratulations to my inlaw's vegetarian eatery AlmaZen, in Miraflores, which recently became the first BCS bio-organic certified restaurant in South America.

The international organic-creditation organization BCS (Bio Control Systems) awarded AlmaZen the certification based on the restaurant's standards of using all organic products in its dishes, buy cheap Soma no rx, Buy Soma from canada, with an emphasis on bio-dynamic farming.

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My in-laws are basically organic-food fanatics, order Soma online c.o.d, Soma for sale, so they really have earned this BCS seal.

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First, a disclaimer:  I know next to nothing about birds, online buy Tramadol without a prescription, Order Tramadol from mexican pharmacy, let alone birds in Lima.  I can identify cuculis -- those fat, grey pigeons that constantly hump in the trees -- and hummingbirds and seagulls, Tramadol pharmacy, Tramadol samples, which you can spot in various parts of the capital, but other than that, where can i find Tramadol online, Australia, uk, us, usa, canada, mexico, india, craiglist, ebay, I couldn't  begin to tell you who all those strange-looking birds are that flap around my backyard.     

All I know is that, buy Tramadol from mexico, Buy cheap Tramadol no rx, like waves of tourists in Peru, some birds appear in the spring, buy Tramadol online no prescription, Tramadol from canadian pharmacy, others in the fall, and there are slews of them.   

Which is why I wasn't surprised when a local birding expert informed me recently that Peru is a serious hot spot for migrating birds, buy Tramadol without a prescription, Purchase Tramadol online, and the department of Lima is one of the best places to see them.   

Including dusty old polluted Lima itself.   

"All kind of birds migrating south come through Lima," author Juan Pedro Paz-Soldán (Aves de Lima) told me.  "Birds from as far away as the North Pole."   

[caption id="attachment_2348" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The estuary (La Arenilla) at La Punta; photo c, Tramadol from canadian pharmacy. Rx free Tramadol, Jorge Vera 2010"][/caption]

"But if you really want to go bird watching nearby, you should go to La Punta, buy generic Tramadol, Buy Tramadol no prescription, " he continued. "The migratory season starts in October, order Tramadol online c.o.d, Buy cheap Tramadol, November.  Now is a good time to go, through March, online buy Tramadol without a prescription. There's an estuary where you can see hundreds of birds."    

We were sitting in Paz-Soldán's office at HSBC bank, overlooking the busy, noisy streets of San Isidro, and the notion of escaping to a quiet wildlife sanctuary just a half-hour's drive away was sounding very appealing, Buy Tramadol Without Prescription. Buy Tramadol online cod,  La Punta is only six miles west of Lima, on a low-lying peninsula by the port of Callao, australia, uk, us, usa, canada, mexico, india, craiglist, ebay, Buy no prescription Tramadol online, and unlike some highly-touted day-trip destinations near the capital, it's charming and undusty and easy to get to.  (See this review by Jessica of Unpaved South America and this one by Ben of Streets of Lima.) I'd been to La Punta twice before -- to check out the town's lovely Deco-era buildings and to eat ceviche -- but Paz-Soldán's birding suggestion would give me another excuse to revisit the seaside town.   

I was all for it.   

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Boats on the estuary, 10 soles per hour to rent; photo C, purchase Tramadol online no prescription. Where can i order Tramadol without prescription, Jorge Vera 2010"][/caption]

By the next Sunday, at the tail end of October, where can i buy cheapest Tramadol online, Purchase Tramadol online, I had convinced El Fotógrafo and his Limeño brother and other family members that birding at La Punta was something we all needed to do. The eight of us piled into several cars, buy Tramadol online no prescription, and the adults remembered to bring hats and sunglasses but forgot the most necessary thing for birdwatching:  binoculars. ( I hadn't read the email with suggestions that Paz-Soldán had thoughtfully sent the night before.) Even minus the binoculars, however, we saw a lot of birds and had a very nice time, including 12-year-old El Hijo, who initially complained en route that he'd rather be home playing Super Mario Kart.  

In all, I was quietly surprised by the thriving wildlife scene that is being nurtured close to the old naval base and the industrial port of Callao.   

What You See

The place to see birds at La Punta is a manmade lagoon-turned-estuary known as the Poza la Arenilla. Buy Tramadol Without Prescription, The estuary is on the south side of the peninsula, and a red-dirt path and a grassy park run alongside it, lined with illustrated signs (courtesy Paz-Soldán and HSBC) that identify the various gulls, pelicans, terns and other birds that flock to the area.  Hundreds of species of birds have been sighted at or near La Punta, making it a goldmine for dedicated birdwatchers.   

[caption id="attachment_2350" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="photo c. Jorge Vera 2010"][/caption]

We saw lots of gulls and some massive pelicans that dove and scooped up fish with their brightly colored beaks (above). My sister-in-law, La Organica, was particularly taken with a flock of delicate white birds that swooped together in mesmerizing patterns. (See below.) While El Fotógrafo took photos with his zoom lens, El Híjo disobeyed the warning signs and climbed down into the estuary muck to poke for clams, for which he was scolded by a uniformed guard who made him get out.    

[caption id="attachment_2349" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="photo c. Jorge Vera 2010"][/caption]

There was a fresh breeze, and everything had that clean seaside smell that subtly lifts your spirits and makes you want to eat piles of seafood, which we then did.  

Tips to Make Your First Birding Experience a Success

Juan Pedro Paz-Soldán offered the following tips to me and El Fotógrafo: 

+ Take (decent) binoculars: it makes a world of difference, Buy Tramadol Without Prescription. Never buy anything for less than, say $50 as it will be a waste of money.  I did well with $80 binos from Hiraoka for a couple of years, but that is the lower limit.  Also wasted $110 in a poor choice. 

+ Do some homework in www.avesdelima.com before heading out.  It will improve the experience 200%. 

+ Check the sections on wetlands, beaches and parks (in that order). 

A first easy challenge is to learn to differentiate the 5 local seagulls, including the one that migrates from the U.S. central plains in Sep-Oct to the coasts of South America and returns to the north in Mar-Apr. 

Remember that confidently identifying the small shorebirds are one of the hardest challenges.  Feel proud if you make any modest headway. 

Resources

Aves de Lima website:  Detailed information on and photos of hundreds of birds that pass through Lima on their annual migrations (in Spanish) 

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Cinco Pirouettas is a stout man in his forties who claims to have been a ballerino when he was young.  He spends most of his time talking to girls at the machines, buy Aleram from mexico. Aleram pharmacy, He also bosses around skinny young men who appear to have never lifted weights before. He sometimes talks to mothers, where can i find Aleram online. Aleram price, "Did you do ballet?" he asked me point blank one afternoon, about a month ago, Aleram samples.  I was stretching on the floor, Buy Aleram Without Prescription. Online buying Aleram, Yes, I told him, buy Aleram from canada, Buy Aleram without prescription, a long, long time ago, order Aleram. Aleram over the counter, He puffed up his chest. "I did ballet, Aleram for sale. Buy cheap Aleram no rx, How many pirouettes in a row could you do?" he demanded. Buy Aleram Without Prescription, Whatever, I said. Two, order Aleram no prescription, Order Aleram from mexican pharmacy, three.

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I imagined a rhino slowly revolving, order Aleram from mexican pharmacy. Aleram over the counter, So do one for me, I said, buy Aleram no prescription. Now, Buy Aleram Without Prescription. Aleram pharmacy, He laughed and walked back to his office. The sign on the door reads: Profesor de Gym, purchase Aleram online. Aleram samples, Yesterday afternoon the gym was empty. It was just me and Cinco Pirouettas and a sweaty teenage boy with headphones on, order Aleram online c.o.d. Buy Aleram Without Prescription, I was lifting weights. Buy Aleram from canada, CP came over to offer useful feedback.

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CP took a step backward and looked at me, appraisingly.  Michael Jackson's "Billy Jean" was playing in the background.

"Disco!" he said, pointing to the battered speakers overhead. "Bailemos!"

He crouched down in fourth position and whipped around in a circle, arms gripping his chest. Buy Aleram Without Prescription, He landed plop, after one turn. An arm shot out to steady itself on the weight rack, knocking over a couple of 1.5-kilo weights.  The sound was very loud in the empty gym.

One rubber weight landed by my foot.

I did not roll my eyes, I didn't say anything sarcastic.

I think I just sighed.

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