Daily Life in Lima,  What's up with the Weather Down There?

Winter Is…Chompa Time in Lima

Chmpas sign in Saga store, Miraflores

It’s June 4, and that means winter here in Lima. Back in northern Florida, where we lived for six years, I’d be wearing short and turning on the AC this time of year. Strange to be pulling out the winter jackets and wool pants, but I have to: Lima esta frio! (Did I mention? None of the houses here has central heating. It’s like centuries of building practices have passed the country by.)

To stay warm, Limenos pile on layers of shirts and chompas. The stores are full of them now, made of alpaca and sheep’s wool. The big department store Sagafallabella is pushing chompas like crazy.  When you walk in the entrance of the Miraflores store, your eye is besieged by a flotilla of “chompa” signs flying overhead, like the one above.

Is it just me, or isn’t she really creepy?

I am an American writer who lived in Lima for seven years (2007-2014), where I covered Andean traditions, melting glaciers and daily life in the capital for Miami Herald, MSNBC and Huffington Post. I now live and work in northern Florida where I champion climate change advocacy and compassionate, affordable eldercare.

12 Comments

  • clementine mandarine

    i don’t having central heating is necessary in lima. the truth is, it is not that cold. it doesn’t get colder than 55, and that’s exaggerating a bit.
    that’s something that a few extra blankets can easily take care of! plus it’s better for the planet…

    i had to say this because your assertion that “It’s like centuries of building practices have passed the country by” really feels a little ignorant and orientalist (in the way that edward said explained this term)

  • Barb

    To each her own, Clementine! It appears that you’ve grown up in Lima, so your body is adjusted to the cold dampness here. I envy you, now that I live here. Maybe in a few more years I will feel less uncomfortable in the winter.

    As far as my comment being “ignorant” and “orientalist,” I would disagree. Peruvian homes lack not only central heating, but built-in radiators (which you find in turn-of-the-century homes throughout the world, including the Soviet Union). Steam heat is ecological. Peruvian homes also lack threshholds at the doors, which has been a basic building practice for centuries. Issues like that prompted my comment about building practices.

    The plus side, as you say, about Peruvian homes lacking some developed-world amenities is that people here consume less energy at home. I agree — that is good for the planet. Now that energy sources are being so expensive, countries like the U.S. can take a few tips from places like Peru.

  • Bob Houghton

    Thanks for bringing back so many memories of my times visiting Lima and Perú. From 1997 to the end of 1999 I was dating a woman who lived in Breña and spent lots of time wandering the streets and parks, eating and cooking the local food and learning that particular dialect of Andino Spanish found in Lima. I found your site by accident when seeing if Perú was sending a contingent to Beijing. Keep bringing back those memories! Buena suerte amiga y saludos de la Canadá.
    Bob
    PS-I believe that “chompa” is a Spanglicization of the British word “jumper”, as they refer to the same garment.

  • Barb

    Thanks for visiting the blog, Bob Houghton. Glad I could bring back some memories — hope they are mostly sweet ones. 🙂

    Stop by any time to add your 2 cents/centimos.

    I do think that the British pronunciation of “jumper” Spanglicizes to “chompa” pretty easily, as you and my British friend Henk point out.

    I was confused because Americans pronounce the -er in “jumper” with a hard “r” sound, not the British “ah” sound.

  • Teresa

    Yep, she’s creepy. She looks like one of those porcelain dolls.
    I prefer “chompa” over “suéter.”

  • Rosa

    I finally went to Peru in 2006 and I am used to low air conditioning settings but I was freezing in Lima. Fifty-five degrees in Lima does not feel like 55 in Miami. I was miserable I had on a wool coat, gloves and silk underwear and couldn’t manage. I think the altitude might be the culprit for the chill.

  • Barb

    “Fifty-five degrees in Lima does not feel like 55 in Miami” — I hear you, Rosa! The chill gets into your bones in the most awful way here. What’s strange is that Miami is very humid, like Lima, so you’d think the chill would be similar. Maybe the problem is that there is no sun here in winter.

    Slowly I am learning how to dress in layers and wear little half-gloves all day, so I can stay warm and not feel like a momia.

  • Mariana

    Lima isn’t THAT cold. I usually can do with a long-sleeved shirt and a hoodie or a sweater. It’s the “serranos” who typically pile on the sweaters.

    My family is all from Lima and I was born there. Although I grew up in Miami, I’ve been in Lima during winter dozens of times, and I honestly don’t think it was ever that cold. 🙂

    Have you noticed how the perpetual sweater-wearers are at artesanias, anyway?

  • Barb

    This winter it has been warmer, Mariana. (Until this week, at least.) I wrote this post last year when the temperatures plummeted.

    Yes, the artesania ladies do wear the chompas regularly.

  • Silverback

    having just moved to Lima from the UK i have to say that i really do look forward to winter here!
    The hardest part of living in Lima is the humidity.
    30c in Lima with its humidity is totaly different to say 30c in chiclayo which can be a lot hotter than Lima but has low humidity and cool breezes coming from the oceans making 30c very easy to bare!
    Also the grey winter only seems to affect the coast as well. When in Surco and La Molina it will be sunny but you can literally see the grey wall of fog that covers the marriott hotel and runs along Miraflores.
    The further you tend to travel from the coast the better the weather gets and it generally seems to be sunny most days, even if there is fog at the start of the morning.
    Despite the grey fog and the temperature dropping to a cool 17c during winter, i find myself that it still feels very sticky and warm during the winter months. Maybe thats with me being from northern europe? as i remember the sun coming out and temperatures rising to 19c back in england and everyone stripping off on the beaches for the heat wave…while my wife who is peruvian was wondering around with a jacket and scarf and freezing cold :-S