Totally Offensive: McDonald’s Opens at Cusco Plaza de Armas
- The “M” is brown, but it’s still the same Mac-chain
Several posts ago, I incorrectly announced that Cafe Ayllu on Cusco’s Plaza de Armas had closed due to a pending rent increase.
My source was wrong; what I found out when I visited Cusco last week is that the Ayllu is still open, for now. (It will close soon.) The real news is: fast-food chain McDonald’s has opened a franchise just three doors down from the Ayllu.
The McDonald’s opened last Wednesday with little fanfare, according to John at the South American Explorers Clubhouse in Cusco.
“They sort of snuck in,” he says. “There wasn’t any word about it.”
The restaurant is keeping a relatively low profile, even with its logo, which is typically a bright yellow “M.” The Plaza de Armas McDonald’s has a discreet brown “M” out front.
“That’s their concession,” sneers John. (Yes, poor McDonald’s, what a sacrifice, turning off the neon yellow!)
I stopped by the Plaza de Armas McDonald’s last Friday to snap a few photos. The interior was decorated in a sort of mock Inca style, with trapezoidal doorframes and a wall of folkloric masks. The menu was exactly the same McDonald’s fare: big Macs, mega fries, super Cokes.
So what’s my beef with McDonald’s?
Its presence cheapens the historic city plaza and dishonors Cusco’s cultural heritage. The restaurant is there to grab tourist dollars and gives little to nothing back to the Peruvian people. Profits funnel directly to the international conglomerate, not to the Peruvian economy.
Let McDonald’s set up shop on a side street; it has no place on the Plaza de Armas, which is one of the most beautiful and historic city squares in South America.
Cusco’s Plaza de Armas was named “One of 60 Great Places in the World” by the Project for Public Spaces (PPS).
PPS describes the plaza’s historic significance:
The Plaza de Armas was called ‘Huacaypata’ after its construction during the Inca Empire. The original plaza was twice the current size, and functioned as the cultural center of Inca life. Cuzco, which was the capital of the Inca Empire, was designed in the shape of a Puma to reflect their Inca animal mythology. Historians proclaim the plaza was intentionally built at the location of the heart of the Puma, in the center of the city. The location of the Plaza is no coincidence. The Plaza is used for most of the city’s events, gatherings, and festivals. Historians feel that the Plaza functioned as the cultural center, or “heart,” of the Inca Empire.
In 1532 Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro defeated the Inca Empire and took control of Cuzco, renaming the Plaza to “Plaza de Armas.” The Spanish reduced the size of the Plaza by building two Churches, la Catedral and la Compañia. La Catedral was built where the palace of Inca Wirancocha once stood. La Compañia was built in 1571 by the Jesuits during the time of Wayna Capac, the last ruler of the unconquered empire. An earthquake in 1650 destroyed the church leading to its immediate reconstruction, which resulted in one of the most beautiful churches in Latin America. The Plaza de Armas portrays the city’s diverse history while remaining the center of Cuzco life and culture.
As the “heartbeat” of Cusco city, the Plaza de Armas is vibrant, remarkable place. Restaurants and cafes are, of course, part of what makes the plaza vital today. However, there is a considerable difference between the local restaurants that have traditionally lined the plaza and the new McDonalds franchise that just opened its doors last week.
Longstanding cafes like the Ayllu have sustained the city’s social and intellectual life through good times and bad. During the 1980s and ’90s, when Shining Path activity swept through the Andes and many foreigners were afraid to visit Peru, the Ayllu and other local restaurants keep their doors open and welcomed hungry locals and tourists. It was not easy to keep a restaurant thriving during the years, and some failed. But those that stuck it out did more than sustain a business: they made havens for people seeking good food and community.
Where was McDonald’s during the brutal years of terrorism? Where was the big yellow “M” during the lean, dangerous times when the city’s tourism industry was sustained by intrepid backpackers?
MacDonald’s couldn’t have cared less then about Cusco.
Now that Machu Picchu has been declared one of the new seven wonders of the world (2007) and terrorism has been largely eradicated in the Andes, the big conglomerates want a piece of the action. There is a lot of money to be made in Cusco, and McDonalds has muscled its way into a piece of prime real estate on the Plaza de Armas, ousting another mom-and-pop restaurant.
If my visit last week was any indication, the franchise will rake in a lot of soles. A lot.
Tourists visiting the Plaza de Armas have a choice, however. They can plunk down 15 soles for a big Mac made of nonPeruvian ingredients, whose profits don’t benefit Peru, or they can enjoy a nice meal at one of the many local restaurants around the Plaza.
Better yet, they can venture into a side street to find a less pricey restaurant that serves excellent local fare.
I know what my choice is.
links: “McDonald’s Not Starved for Profits” (Forbes, 9/9/08)
“Super Size Me” (Morgan Spurlock’s 2004 documentary film)
Barbara
I am an American writer who lived in Lima for seven years (2007-2014), where I covered Andean traditions, melting glaciers and daily life in the capital for Miami Herald, MSNBC and Huffington Post. I now live and work in northern Florida where I champion climate change advocacy and compassionate, affordable eldercare.
34 Comments
Fernando Romero
Close that McDonalds, not in the Plaza de Armas … maybe in the streets around…
Too bad, my peruvian friends just turn around and ignore it.
Andy Roscoe
I dispise McD too, but I believe Peru is the main provider of potatoes for their fries.
Thanks! I enjoy your blog, Andy
Barb
Thanks for your comments, Andy (and Fernando). I am going to research the McD potato issue; if it’s true that the Peruvian franchises do use Peruvian papas, then that is a step in the right direction, since they sell so many french fries.
However, even if the fries are made in Peru, I still believe McD’s is out of place on the Plaza de Armas!
Barb
McD’s french fry update: McDonald’s, as well as every other fast-food restaurant in Peru, imports all of the potatoes that it uses for french fries from Canada, according to the American and Canadian Association of Peru.
here’s the link:
http://www.acap-peru.org/newsletter/2007-11/odds-and-ends.html
McDonald’s wants all of its french fries to taste the same worldwide, and the indigenous varieties of potatoes grown in Peru don’t have the same taste and consistency as do North American potatoes.
So, according to ACAP, those french fries sold in the Cusco McDonald’s aren’t made from Peruvian potatoes.
What a waste. Peruvian potatoes are so delicious.
Peruanista
“There wasn’t any word about it.”
Hi Barbara,
Actually there has been an extensive debate including opinions given online -especially in forums where Cusquenians chat about local issues.
There is a lot of people talking against the opening of not only Mc Donald’s but also KFC and Starbucks. But in Peru, this stupid idea that private and foreign companies will bring progress to Peruvians, allows these investors to do whatever they please.
I wrote about this issue last May, when these 3 American chain companies announced their plans to open facilities at the Huaycapata (or Aucaypata, or Wajaypata) square.
It seems that they all have already received the approval from Cusco authorities – I think the Catholic church has the last word here since most of the buildings in that beautiful urban space are their property.
These links would give you more info:
http://enperu.blogsyte.com/blog.aspx?b=564 (a British guy living in Lima speaks his mind about this issue)
http://peruanista.blogspot.com/2008/05/cusco-se-vende-mcdonalds-kfc-y.html (What I think in Spanish)
http://www.forosenperu.com/actualidad-nacional/6180-cusco-se-vende-a-starbucks-mcdonalds-y-kfc.html (Cusquenians say some interesting things)
Chuck
I don’t care much for anti-corporate bashing because I don’t believe it serves much purpose nor accomplishes anything, but you did hit it right at the end Barb: “Tourists visiting the Plaza de Armas have a choice, however. They can plunk down 15 soles for a big Mac made of nonPeruvian ingredients, whose profits don’t benefit Peru, or they can enjoy a nice meal at one of the many local restaurants around the Plaza.”
Always the choice, but apparently supply and demand has decided where the people are choosing.
Fiorella C
I am so disgusted to hear that they opened the chain in lima, they make a few jobs for some people there and thats it.. they are completely destroying this beautiful are that is suppose to be completely peruvian. I hate macdonalds and all that they are I dont even eat any of it in california. Its the same horrible crap everywhere …
Barb
Peruanista — thanks for the links. Yes, I am aware that there was discussion about the American franchises setting up shop on the plaza. El Comercio also ran a full-page article on the Ayllu’s demise, on May 20, 2008.
John, the guy at SAE, didn’t observe any public opposition; that’s why he said there was “no word.” Maybe a better descripton would be “no public protest.”
My idea of effective protest includes not just written discussion (website forums, blog posts, articles) but on-site protests with actual, real human beings peacefully expressing their views in public. Maybe such demonstrations were held in Cusco prior to McC’s opening; if so, readers, please tell me about them!
So far, however, I haven’t learned of any. Without public demonstrations, awareness of the issue is contained among activists and readers, not to the public at large.
I am old enough to remember the grape boycotts in the USA during the 1960s. (See http://www.globalexchange.org/countries/americas/unitedstates/california/3340.html
Migrant workers (from Mexico) in California were being grossly underpaid, subjected to hazardous working conditions and exploited for child labor as well. Many Americans in the 1960s didn’t realize that the grapes sold in their supermarkets were picked by workers who were being grossly abused.
A national strike was organized, migrant workers participated in demonstrations, and millions of Americans showed their support by boycotting grapes picked at farms that exploited their workers.
I remember going to the supermarket with my mother and seeing tables out front, where people would hand out information about the boycott and talk about the problem. That’s how most Americans learned about the problem, and it was effective; like many families, we stopped buying grapes until the boycott was over. Having a real person right there, where we bought our groceries, made the issue immediate and pressing, and it roused our conscience. It got to a point where you’d feel guilty for buying California grapes.
Live demonstrations could have similar effect in Cusco on raising people’s consciousness about the demise of the Ayllu (which has been around for 37 years) and could propell people to take stronger action, to appeal to the archbishop. Right now, a few articles in newspapers and posts on blogs that he never reads have little effect on the archbishop’s conscience. He is the ultimate authority and until public opposition (if much exists) to the ousting of the Ayllu is made manifest on his home turf — the real estate next to the cathedral — he will rest happily, thinking that his greed remains cloaked from public view.
Barb
Ah, Chuck — unlike you, I’m all for corporate bashing when the corporation deserves it. These days, many corporations possess more power and influence than do nation states, and without whistle-blowers in the media, there would be less incentive for corporations to maintain sound, humane, ecological practices.
As you observe, however, my post about McD’s on the Plaza de Armas, isn’t about the quality of McD’s food per se — that’s another issue and one that’s better analyzed on a host of other blogs — but rather, whether the chain should have been allowed the set up shop on such a historic site.
My debate is with the authorities who permitted the lease agreement.
Peruanista
I agree with you Barb. Cusquenians need to wake up and speak their mind. Would be nice if someone in Cusco would talk to the authorities and the people directly and see what they think now it’s open.
Barb
Yes, Carlos, this is a cause for people who live in Cusco to take on. I find it odd that activists there haven’t pushed the issue to the forefront. It’s too late to kick out McDonald’s, but Starbucks still hasn’t displaced the Ayllu, and that cafe’s heritage is clearly worth supporting. It’s easier to rally people around a positive cause (“Save the Ayllu”) than a purely critical/negative one (“Stop Starbucks from Moving In”).
I’ll say it again to readers: If there are any of you out there in Cusco who want to help preserve the integrity of the Plaza de Armas, please rally to the Ayllu’s aid now! I’ll promote your efforts and spread the word.
luis
Quiero hacer mi comentario pero en espanol, por que ?? por que estan comentando u opinando hacerca del Cusco, mi tierra yo naci alli y creo que yo si conozco la idicincracia de la poblacion y de la gente, segun mi opinion yo si estoy de acuerdo con que se inviertan capitales y empresas en el Cusco de cualquier forma color u olor… pero siempre cuidando y preservando la cultura y la tradicion.. pero estoy total mente en desacuerdo que quieran mantener un negocio como el Ayllu que estuvo alli por muchos anos que indiscutiblemente su cafe el mejores pero este negocio puede funcionar en cualquier otro lugar por que ya es conocida su calidad…. mientras se invierta mas dinero en mi Cusco y se cree mas trabajo es lo mejor… la opinion de mis paisanos es todavia tendiente a la oposicion.. se oponen a todo por eso es que el Cusco y el Peru no puede crecer por que no dejan hacer nada.. pero no saben que si se invierte o se crean empresas mucha mas personas tendran trabajo y asi una mejor calidad de vida…. para mi Mcdonald’s en Cusco es perfecto … pero no le pongan el pero ??? que la papa, que el Inka vivia alli, los tiempos estan pasados hay que respetarlos y preservarlos, valorarlos y cuidarlos pero tambien hay que crecer reinvertir para poder tener una mejor calidad de vida.
Quiero mi tierra el Cusco, pero tambien la quiero verla crecer….
Barb
Hi, Luis. I welcome comments in Spanish; I respond in English because that’s easiest for me.
As I understand it, your argument is that the more business comes to Cusco and Peru, the better it is for the city/country, and that the Ayllu can easily find another spot. It is true that Ayllu can find another spot, but my objection to fast food chains being beside the cathedral is that they cheapen the cultural history of one of the greatest plazas on the earth. I believe McD’s and KFCs belong on a side street, not a venerable cafe like the Ayllu.
Visitors from foreign countries don’t view McD’s as a good restaurant. It is fast, cheap food, even if the burgers cost more in Peru. The brand McDonalds and esp KFC, both are associated with junk in the USA. Think of a crappy brand in Peru and then ask yourself: Would that brand deserve to be near the US White House or opposite another great national monument in the United States? That is the comparison.
Cameron
Luis – voy a tratar de contestar en espanol. Yo soy Ingles y yo vivia en Peru para uno, siempre mi corazon ha sido en Peru , mi esposa es Iquena, quiero volver a Peru, pero ella siempre me promete que no hay oportunidades ahi.
Tristamente cuando pienso en la gente Peruana y la realidad de su vida estoy de acuerdo contigo. Pensandolo bien que los ricos afortunados Europeos dicen (indirectament) es que en orden a apreciar la belleza de Cuzco la gente tiene que seguir sin opportunidades para que podemos tener el lujo que ustedes no tienen.
No quieren decir eso pero eso es que esten diciendo.
Barb – I agree with the heart of your point too, I am drawn between you and Luis. Before writing this comment I looked at the map and thought “what can I tell Luis, where could he go in his country to get the opportunites? I wanted to write Trujillo or another city. “Another City”, i can’t think of anywhere realistically that is not heritage in Peru apart from Lima. Should all Peruvians who want choice be bannished to Lima so we can admire Inca Beauty in the Andes?
I know your blog is an honest and heart felt critique of “One Plaza and One Threat” but in reality it is on the internet, open to world and also opens that can of worms.
Most of my friends in Peru dream of migration and are out of work, some are 25 and others 50+.
I hate MacDonalds too. I hate to see it near any heritage site, I am a complete “rustic” at heart but when I look at Peru and see so much unemployment, maybe it’s time to let things progress as they will. MD, Starbucks and others are only the surface of employment, there are many jobs connected to their chains and sadly people need the work.
Maybe this blog is only for “Backpackers” and “Holiday Makers” who have seen, done and tasted everything, but most Cuzquenos have not.
MacDonalds is the soul-destroying, horrific scar that makes a start for the people who built the country you love to see another country themselves. They deserve it, how old were you when you went on your first vacation overseas?
“Let it be”
Cameron
Barb, I apologize for having a crack at you and more fortunate Westerners. In any case I fall into this category too, so I feel I am a hypocrite.
Lastly “let it be” was the wrong thing to write in every way.
Barb
Cameron,
No apologies needed. It’s good for people to air their thoughts about McD’s on the Plaza de Armas, and those thoughts can be contradictory.
However, I stick to my guns. The big chains should not be located on the Plaza but rather, on one of the many other streets in downtown Cusco that receive a lot of business. Putting the chains there would not deprive Cuzco dwellers of work.
Remember in all of this that the archbishop of Cuzco reaps the profits from the rents paid by Kentucky Fried Chicken, Starbucks and McD’s. Those mega-chains can afford to pay higher rents, thus driving up the rents for every business owner around the Plaza. That process does not benefit ordinary Peruvians or small business owners in Cusco.
My interest is not in keeping Cusco “pure” for the benefit of a tourist’s photo op. It is of maintaining the integrity of the square and preserving Peruvian businesses on the Plaza de Armas.
Camila
Chains like McD have a very high rotation of personal and with the exception of the manager they all work as part time so they don’t get the benefits and stability of full-time paid jobs. To think the Church authorize this, what a shame for them.
So I know what you mean Luis, but the arrival of McD doesn’t mean something positive to Cusco.
Thanks for writing about this Barbara.
Barb
You’re welcome, Camila.
The Church basically is giving these chains carte blanche to move onto the Plaza de Armas and make loads of money off burger-starved tourists, without offering much to the local people. Interestingly, the city of Cusco and the Church were in a position to demand a lot more from the chains. They could have stipulated that workers receive medical benefits, that a decent percentage of sales goes to fund charity in Cusco. Companies are slobbering to get a piece of the $ pie in Cusco, so the city/church could have held out and demanded concessions. But it just came down to a high rent for the Church in exchange for one of the most historically prestigious addresses in South America.
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Sarah Foushee
Lo que menos me gustó de Peru cuando estuve alli es que los peruanos no tienen personalidad. Sólo aspiran a parecerse a los americanos, creo que se averguenzan de si mismos e intentan incluir en sus vidas algo que sea americano como palabras mezcladas en ingles, lentes de contacto de colores claros ,tintes de pelo rubio.
Qué pena que un pais tan hermoso como Perú esté habitado por gente con tan poco orgullo y personalidad.
Un Macdonald en Cusco es un reflejo de lo que digo. Con la excelente gastronomia que tienen en Perú, no saben darla a a conocer y resulta que ahora el restaurante mas famoso de cusco es un Mac Donalds.
Me quedé de piedra cuando fui a un restaurante y quise comer lo que allí llaman papa amarilla pero resulta que las papas de su restaurantes eran congeladas importadas de los EEUU. Qué triste
Barb
An interesting perspective, Sarah, that Peruvians lack “personality” and pride in their heritage. Yes, some do. Others are very pro-Peruvian and resist Americanization.
As Ward (another expat bloggers) has commented, some Peruvians, especially the younger generation, need to be encouraged to value their own culture and not think that “U.S. is better.” My own (American) kid thinks that Bembos has better hamburgers than does MacDonald’s!
Gabriela
Hello all. I have found out about the Mc D opening in Plaza de Armas last year. As a cusquenian who moved to Canada 8 years ago, I am appauled. I cannot believe such restaurant has been given a privileged spot in Cusco. I can only imagine cusquenians excited to try their food, as I would have probably been with something new and so well known as McDonalds ( you know, you see them in the movies, read about it) But Mc D is most likely one of the worst food chains everywhere else, together with KFC and others. I am offended to see it in our most visited spot in Cusco. I am offended the Catholic church has given them that privilege.
Barb
Thanks for adding your voice to the comments, Gabriela. It’s good to hear from Peruvians who understand why having MacDonald’s on the Plaza de Armas isn’t a sign of progress, even if the teenagers might think so.
Brett
This is an atrocity and deeply offensive to me as someone who loves Cusco. The remedy is to write to the Mayor and council of Cusco, as well as to newspapers in Peru, and demand that the lease not be renewed. Long-term a law to prevent any similar foreign chains moving into the area is needed.
Susan
Oh stop with the self-righteous wailing over corporate giant McDonalds.
When you have traveled as much as my husband and I, we like having options and let’s face it.. I was tired of the “what am I really eating” guessing game.. sometimes a damned Big Mac just hits the spot.
Rodrigo
While I don’t despise McD’s as most people do, I find it sad to read on your blog that Cafe Ayllu closed. Used to go there years ago and it was great.
Elizbeth - Smith
What kind of authorities does the beautiful city of Cusco have?
They never should let give authorization to Mc Donald’s enterprises to open this restaurant. I don’t like Mc Donals at all . I live in USA , it is the worst chain food ever!!!.
On the other hand it is very sad that the Cafe Ayllu closed. The owners of the house as everybody knows is the Catholic Church, the Bishop does not have an idea how is to lose a job,of course he lives witht all the luxury, he has a warm bed to sleep and plenty of food to eat. he should step ouiside his palace and see firsthand the poor people sleeping on the street, hungry. I am sure that several employees of the Aylly are without job now. Shame on you Bishop!!!!!!
Dr. Owenson
I agree with Smith. Every time I went to Peru and Cusco, my favorite place to go for coffee was the Ayllu. The Bishop does not own anything, Cuzco belongs to the people of Cusco!!
Barb
I agree, Elizbeth and Dr. Owenson!
carlos loarte
es verdad el peru debe crecerr pero capital tenemos e ideas tambien si necesitamos mas turistas no sera porque halla un macdonals o no sera porque promobamos mas nuestro querido machupichu y lo bello que es cuzco, necesitamos empresarios peruanos que nos den dinero la verdad sobre macdonals esq la mayoria del dinero se va para de vuelta a casa y dara trabajo si capaz de mas trabajos hara que mas gente y administradores en vez de preocuparse e innovar y crear un negocio bueno se dediqen a administrar una sucursal de usa en nuestro pais, sin mencionar que la muerte por obesidad causada por burgers es mas que la gente que muere por drogadiccion
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