Photo of the Day: Plaza de Armas, Cusco
- Early morning, Cusco Plaza de Armas; photo by Jorge Vera 2008
Quite beautiful in the morning light.
Later in the morning, filled with tourists and restaurant employees hawking luncheon specials.
Former mom-and-pop stores around the plaza have now been converted into high-end jewelry boutiques selling reproduction Sipan brooches. People on the street pester you all day and night to buy stuff (tours to Manu, chompas), as American blogger Alli notes in Corriendo La Liebre.
Still beautiful though.
Venerable local cafe — the Ayllu — declared part of the city’s cultural patrimony. El Fotografo and I were sitting there one morning in 1995 when he saw a porter rush by with a refrigerator on his back. That surreal image got him started on The Porter Project.
Much-loved Ayllu forced out in 2008 by high rents (greedy landlord = bishop of Cusco). Space now occupied by a Starbucks.
I will not eat there or drink their overpriced coffee knowing what was done to the Ayllu.
The Ayllu kept aits doors open during the hard years when Shining Path activities frightened many tourists from visiting Peru. It sustained the city’s writers and intellectuals, and its everyday citizens. Was not elitist. Nearly everyone could afford a cup of coffee or tea or hot chocolate there.
Now that Machu Picchu has been declared one of the world’s seven wonders, mega-corporations want a piece of the action in Cusco. Evidently the bishop of Cusco couldn’t resist Starbucks’ offer to rent the property next to the cathedral for big $$$.
Barbara
I am an American writer who lived in Lima for seven years (2007-2014), where I covered Andean traditions, melting glaciers and daily life in the capital for Miami Herald, MSNBC and Huffington Post. I now live and work in northern Florida where I champion climate change advocacy and compassionate, affordable eldercare.
5 Comments
Melissa
I kind of assumed that this was going to happen/did happen to all small businesses in Cusco, sooner or later. I guess it shouldn’t suprise me how things ‘get done’ when selling/renting a valuable property but it always amazes me how the church is ALWAYS involved in all this crap. They are the ones that take care of all the dirty job – at least all the priests in power or high positions.
It’s so disappointing! and it makes it so hard to want to colaborate/ donate to the church. You assume money will go to good things but it might be going toward the bishop’s new furniture or new car. It sucks.
Allison
I’m currently living in Cusco…
and yesterday, the space below Ayllu held the grand opening for Cusco’s first McDonalds.
Shocking.
El Blog-Sitter
It turns out, the Ayllu is still open! At least for now. I was told so by American in Lima reporting from Cusco this morning.
However, undisclosed reliable sources tell us the Bishop of Cusco is praying for some multinational mega-corporation to take over their corner.
Seems like Four-Bucks will be replacing the Ayllu soon enough…
Overpriced café con leche anyone?
James
Hi, I found your blog on this new directory of WordPress Blogs at blackhatbootcamp.com/listofwordpressblogs. I dont know how your blog came up, must have been a typo, i duno. Anyways, I just clicked it and here I am. Your blog looks good. Have a nice day. James.
Barb
Allison — Yes, MacDonalds did manage to infiltrate the Plaza de Armas. Awful. (I was wrong about the Ayllu, however, it’s still there.)
I’ve visited your blog a few times and enjoyed your posts. Tried to post a comment, but your blog system only allows comments from people with gmail accounts.
I see from your blog that you’re on a Fulbright to studythe Indigenista movement (hope I spelled that right). You might want to talk to the regulars and waitors at the Ayllu; the cafe has played a role in nurturing independent thought in Cusco and spreading word about documentary films, etc.
If I could be in Cusco year-round, I’d organize a series of protests outside the Ayllu to draw public attention to the problem with the archbishop’s real-estate dealings. Since you’re there, you might want to spread the word when meeting new people. Surely there must be some people there who would want to pitch in to help save the Ayllu.
James — thanks for stopping by.
Melissa — yeah, the church often can’t resist getting its hands on the gold.