Purple Month Strikes Again
It’s mes morado(purple month) again in Lima, and the faithful are dressed head-to-toe in purple clothing, a sign of their devotion to El Señor de los Milagros. This miracle-working Christ figure is housed in the Church of the Nazarenes, in downtown Lima (see photo above), where thousands of worshippers come to pray and make offerings each October.
I blogged about Purple Month and the Lord of the Miracles in An American in Lima last year. Then I was fascinated by (1) the burning devotion of the faithful; (2) the creative ways that people found to weave purple into their wardrobes; and (3) the abundance of seriously good candy and pastries to be had during this Peruvian holy month.
Let me be more specific about the candies.
Just outside the Church of the Nazarene, but within the church’s limits, is a small kiosk selling wickedly delicious chocolates and chocolate-covered marshmallows. The Nazarene nuns make these candies, and the smooth dark chocolate is miles away from the tasteless, hard, milk chocolates you might find sold at a typical church fundraiser in the States. I don’t know who trained these nuns — St. Godiva? — but someone in the kitchen knows her bidness.
If you want to read my musings about El Señor de los Milagros and Willy Wonka, read here.
If you want to experience the real thing, get thee to the Church of the Nazarenes, where you can join the throngs that parade by El Senor, hoping for a bit of his grace to waft their way.
Mucho fe, mucho palo santo, and on your way out, chocolates to die for.
Barbara
I am an American writer who lived in Lima for seven years (2007-2014), where I covered Andean traditions, melting glaciers and daily life in the capital for Miami Herald, MSNBC and Huffington Post. I now live and work in northern Florida where I champion climate change advocacy and compassionate, affordable eldercare.
10 Comments
Eleonn
Just read this… and I’m really thinking about forgetting my diet : (. I LOVE dark chocolate.
Pico
What I miss the most from the October festivities is the Turrón de Doña Pepa. For some reason, religious festivities bring out some of the best sweets in memory. Equally delicious is the frejol colado that you can get in Chincha during La Melchorita celebrations.
You see what you have done? The memories have me salivating already and I have to wipe the drool from the monitor and keyboard…
Saludos
Barb
Okay, now I’m laughing. Is it only in Peru that Holy Month makes people salivate? Seriously, I don’t have anything else to compare this to, other than Easter in the United States. I liked Easter candy as a kid, but it was never like the stuff they’re selling outside the Nazarenes.
El Fotografo is a nut for Turrón de Doña Pepa. They even sell it in the “impulse buy” section at the checkout counter at Wong. EF was fingering a box yesterday, wondering if he shouldn’t buy some. I think he’ll go for it soon.
Eleonn
Barb EF never told you about this kind of stuff before you all move in? I have a sister who lives in Barcelona and his husband (he is spaniel) just loves to be here because of food but he knew about all this stuff before his very first time in Perú. Since she moved out my siblings and I send to her a package when somebody is going to Spain (if we can of course) What we use to send? Turrón, chocolates, cua cuas, doña pepas, pícaras cookies (my brother in law just loves them). My hand bag only had an empty backpack, cookies and chocolates (the hand bag weighted almost 10Kg) and there was more food in my luggage haaaa.
Now when theyre coming, he makes a list of the things he want to eat and he even gives priorities to every item.
Stuart
Hail Lord Pacha Kamaq, great trembler of the earth! Hide thee in the false form of Christ if thee must, but those of us that know your true face shall worship thee as thou intended.
Emily
So THATS why I’ve been seeing women dressed up in purple robes so often! I guess they celebrate in Cusco, also. Though, sadly, I haven’t seen any chocolates outside of churches.
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Barb
LOL, Stuart.
Yes, Emily, the purple stuff is serious in Peru. Too bad no chocolates outside churches in your neck of the woods.
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Barb
Thanks, Rachel, for the link. I would leave comments on your blog only you have to sign in, and I’m not one for creating new accounts if I can’t help it.
Readers: check out Rachel’s blog for another (former) US expat’s views on Peruvian culture.