Food & Dining

Peruvian Cuisine Will Be Top Food Trend of 2009, Bets Epicurious

Ceviche with sides of camote (sweet potato) and choclo (Peruvian corn)
Ceviche with sides of camote (sweet potato) and choclo (Peruvian corn)

The accolades for Peruvian food keep rolling in. This time it’s the award-winning food site Epicurious.com that’s predicting Peruvian cuisine will be the hot food trend of the new year.

Peruvian is the new Thai: You thought Peruvian cuisine was all about seviche, maybe? Guess again: Peru boasts culinary influences from Spanish, Basque, African, Cantonese, Japanese, Italian, French, and British immigrants.

Pisco Sour, anyone?

Epicurious editor James Oliver Cury adds, “We think there will be more Peruvian dishes at [U.S.] restaurants and in popular culture. ” (His comment is followed by links to starred Peruvian recipes such as fried yuca with huancaina sauce and ceviche de pescado.)

The pronouncement by Epicurious echoes the opinions voiced by Todd English and Bon Appetit magazine earlier this year. No doubt the Epicurious staff has been followng the fortunes of Gaston Acurio’s new La Mar cevicheria on San Francisco’s Embarcadero, where crowds have been lining up since the restaurant’s October launch. Two additional U.S. locations, in New York and Las Vegas, will open in 2009. 

As an expat who’s enjoyed a year and a half of outstanding dining experiences since moving to Peru in July 2007,  I can testify to quality and innovation of contemporary Peruvian cuisine. Certainly I’m pleased to see it gain a wider audience abroad. Still, I wonder if North Americans and Europeans will develop a palate for Peruvian cooking and if its flavors can be replicated successfully in other countries.

Peru’s unique geography has shaped its varied cuisine, which has more unique dishes than any other in the world. Peruvian chefs have at their disposal unusual fruits from the Amazon, 3,000 varieties of native potatoes and fresh fish from the cold waters of the Pacific. You can’t find ingredients that varied, fresh, flavorful and affordable in other countries, as anyone who’s tried ceviche in the United States can attest. You need the Peruvian limon and just-caught-that-morning lenguado to make a first-rate ceviche Peruvian-style. Other styles of ceviche are possible, but they won’t taste like what you get in Lima or Callao.

No doubt a simplified version of Peruvian cuisine will be adopted for tastes abroad, perhaps one based on a limited array of distinctive sauces.

Links:

Conde Nast Goes Ga-Ga Over Peru’s Gaston Acurio (Nov. 11, 2008)

Peruvian Food “Next Big Thing” Predicts Todd English, Bon Appetit (Aug. 22, 2008)

I am an American writer who lived in Lima for seven years (2007-2014), where I covered Andean traditions, melting glaciers and daily life in the capital for Miami Herald, MSNBC and Huffington Post. I now live and work in northern Florida where I champion climate change advocacy and compassionate, affordable eldercare.

19 Comments

  • Miguel Fuentes

    That’s awesome!! I hope more people know about how wonderful and diverse Peruvian food is, and gets more commercialised! 🙂

  • Colin

    Peruvian food is wonderful and America outside of Miami has no idea. I always say that if I get rich, I’m opening a Peruvian restaurant in my hometown.

    Ceviche, arroz con pollo, seco de cordero and causa are unique and sure to please.

    Cuy – while I think it sucks – would have to be on the menu for authenticity purposes.

  • Ward Welvaert

    The thing I like the most about Peruvian food is that we always eat fresh. It always strikes me back in the US how much heavier the people are… to lose weight, live in the Andes for awhile!

    Also, the food chain is not a mind-boggling industrial enterprise, I just go to the market and buy fresh fruits and vegetables. I even enjoy haggling with the old ladies at the market over prices “no quiero precio gringo mami!”

  • Barb

    Colin, I guess if you’re a stickler for authenticity, the cuy would be a fine menu choice. I don’t know if you could get most Americans to eat it. The exception would be if you were running a very upscale eatery and you charged like $30 a plate for a cuy — that would give it the cache US foodies need!

    Hope you get rich in 2009.

    Ward — sounds like you’re losing weight in Cusco. It’s great, huh? I’ve lost 10 pounds living in Lima (even eating real butter).

    Good for you, honing your Spanish in the market. LOL.

    My favorite way to lose weight in Peru is to visit the Andes. My body does not like the high altitude and I can’t eat much there. I call it La Dieta Andina. You’re probably adjusted now, so you can fill up your plate. Up in Ausangate I ate only soups and a few crackers.

  • Brian

    During my four months in Miraflores,..I ate Peruvian cuisine daily,sterring clear of fast food,..it`s awesome !’ Chirimoya Imperial’ for dessert each Domingo at the Barranco Food Court was a special delight !
    I`m looking forward to returning Very soon !

  • Barb

    I’m glad you switched from American-style fast food to Peruvian-style good food during your stay.

    I adore chirimoya desserts. I think it’s my favorite fruit in Peru. And so few people know of it outside of the country.

  • Ward Welvaert

    Barb,

    I couldn’t agree more: want to lose weight, live in the Andes for a while. The food is fresh and natural, and people here traditionally couldn’t afford a pound of meat or junk food every day. In addition, I walk everywhere I need to go.

    You’re right about the altitude though. It took me 6 months to get used to living in Cusco, and you should definitely eat light when you first get here. Don’t know why, but it seems to be better for you.

  • nora calvo

    Vivimos en Saint Louis Missouri y hay un Restaurant Peruano.

    Mango Peruvian Cusine, es muy bueno y muy bonito.

    Visitenlo cuando esten por aca

  • Barb

    Nora, El Fotografo went to school in St. Louis and lived there for many years. At the time, there were few people from Peru there and certainly no Peruvian restaurants. He will be interested to hear about Mango.

  • Inca Princess

    No doubt Ceviche must be made with natural products, there are a few versions on utube, but this is the winner done my a latin tv Station TELEMUNDO.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oJe91lHyqE
    Ay Ay PIcante Peruvian Cuisine , Chicago’s Premiere Peruvian Restaurant.
    2 years ago Chef Don Lucas Carbajal made a dish for my husband (to this day his favorite) Palta Rellena de Camarones = Avocado stuffed with shrimp (s), the presentation it self is amazing, i wish i could put a picture of it, this is the only restaurant in Chicago that makes this dish, No my husband is not Peruvian but LOVES peruvian cuisine, but he will never eat cuy, i would, but no one makes it here, i don’t think is legal…. yet.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq3bJinFNEI&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fayaypicante.com%2Fay-ay-picante-restaurant-review.htm&feature=player_embedded

    this last one was done by Steve dolinsky A food Critic in Chicago = HUNGRY HOUND.

  • peruvian in Mexico

    No doubt Princess, Ay Ay Picante Peruvian Cuisine has a great Video of peruvian food!!
    Arriva los Peruanos!!!

  • Scozia

    All this talk is bringing back memories. I’m heading off to Cusco in 3 weeks. Looking forward to some chancho con tamales and rocoto rellena ( not sure about spelling) and paltas and cheerioocho (?).
    Glad someone else mentioned the weight thing at one point I thought there was something wrong with me. Although I was never overweight before I certainly lost weight living in Cusco for 10 months. Thing is I never did a bit of exercise and I felt like I ate well.

  • Barb

    Scozia, I’m sure you’ll eat well in Cusco. The dining scene there keeps improving — I think Gaston Acurio opened a restaurant there within the last year, and most of the old favorites are going strong. Rocoto rellena — yes, that’s the correct spelling.

    I’m not sure how to spell cheerioocho or what it is. Anyone know?

    Check out Ward’s blog for more news of Cusco. I’m sure he won’t mind if you probe him for more dining suggestions.:)

  • Eleonn

    Barb Gaston Acurio’s restaurant is in Arequipa not in Cuzco. I guess he will open a hotel there soon though.

    By the way, the correct spelling is rocoto relleno.

  • Barb

    Eleon and everyone,

    Gaston’s restaurant in Cusco is called Chi Cha (Calle Plaza Regocijo 261, 2do nivel, Cusco, Peru).

    I don’t know what the name of the Arequipa one is. There appears to be a Gaston restaurant in every major Peruvian city.

    Thanks for relleno correction.

  • Mary

    Gaston’s restaurant in Arequipa is also called Chicha:
    Santa Catalina 210, interior 105
    Arequipa
    Haven’t been there yet, but a couple of friends had a superb meal on September!