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By Barbara R. Drake, with photos by Jorge Vera

Ceviche Fuerza Asiatica, from Pescados Capitales, Lima, Peru

Call it haute cuisine with a political bite. That's what some foreign dignitaries are tucking into at a top eatery in Lima this week, when the APEC Leader's Summit concludes with a special focus on the world economic crisis. Pescados Capitales, on the city's gastronomic corridor of Avenida La Mar, is serving up a menu of original dishes that salute and satirize "Los Pecados de la APEC" (The Sins of APEC). Overseen by head chef Wilfredo Castillo and owner Nguyen Chávez, the APEC dishes feature "summit" gatherings of classic Peruvian foods like ceviche (raw marinated fish) and lúcuma (a sweet Amazonian fruit), paired with ingredients associated with China, Mexico, the United States and some of the other 21 visiting nations.   The big question is, said Chávez, 38, in a recent interview, will the flavors/countries dominate one another, or cooperate in the next decade? "Fuerza Asiatica" (Asian Strength, equivalent US$11) is a tip of the toque to Asia's economic leverage, the driving force behind the APEC meetings. The Pescados Capitales entree features a typical Peruvian ceviche of lenguado (a white fish), octopus and shrimp, marinated in an Asian soy- and oyster sauce tinged with tamarind, a typical Peruvian ingredient. "That is the most Asian dish on the menu," said Castillo, 46, during recent a tasting session to determine the final dishes. "We had to include that."

Chef Wilfredo Castillo, Pescados Capitales

"A PEC-ar" (To Sin, $11.50) brings together South American lenguado, Asian octopus and North American shrimp, prepared as a ceviche with three typical Peruvian sauces (rocoto, yellow aji and basil).  "This dish symbolizes the spirit of economic cooperation that should guide the member nations of APEC," said Chávez, a former anthropologist who weaves political commentary into the weekly menu descriptions. "Los visitantes" (The Visitors, $12.75) finds Peruvian tuna "visited" by a red wine sauce flavored with honey and aji (a mild Peruvian chile), along with sweetened fried shrimp and arroz chaufa, a fried rice made popular in Peru by Chinese immigrants. Not all dishes represent a balance of power between nations. This is Peru, after all, where in two decades the nation's cuisine has gone from being "overlooked...to the hottest trend in South America," notes this month's Condé Nast Portfolio. Castillo's chefs can't help but be biased toward Peru's culinary high notes. In "El dueño de casa" (Master of the House, $12.50), a hefty portion of "presidential-sealed tuna" (i.e., Peru) "rules the house" and thus invites that "classic of classics, rocoto relleno [Peruvian-style stuffed pepper] brimming with seafood, raisins, carrots and split peas."

Owner Nguyen Chavez samples dishes from the APEC menu, Nov. 14, 2008

What is the connection between that abundant dish of all-Peruvian ingredients, APEC and the world economy? "That Peru is doing very well despite the world financial crisis," said Chávez, referring to Peru's robust 9.8% GDP to date for 2008. "There is no crisis here!" Like nearby cevicheria La Mar, the hot spot owned by celebrity chef Gastón Acurio, Pescados Capitales may see fewer regular customers this week due to security roadblocks being set up throughout Lima. Nevertheless, Chávez is ordering extra supplies of fish and other ingredients to accommodate delegates, whose offices have been calling since last week to make reservations. "Representatives for two heads of state and one first lady have contacted us to express interest," said Chavez. "But we won't know exactly when they are coming until the last minute, for security reasons." And what might foreign dignitaries make of his menu's tongue-in-cheek warning to APEC countries to avoid the sins of avarice and envy, in order to advance economic cooperation? "I think visitors will enjoy the menu [descriptions]," said Chavez. "But above all, they'll like the food, the service and the atmosphere. Everybody will leave with a good taste in their mouth."

 DINING INFORMATION

Pescados Capitales

Av. La Mar 1337, Miraflores; 421-8808

Open 12:30 - 5:30 p.m. only; reservations 9 a.m. -- noon

www.pescados-capitales.com/

Click here for more suggestions from An American in Lima on on where to dine in Lima during APEC week.