An American in Lima

Spanish bullfighter Jose Uceda Leal before his first corrida at Plaza de Acho, Lima, Nov. 1, 2008: , photo c. Jorge Vera 2008

Born and trained in Madrid, José Igacio Uceda Leal ranks among the top toreros in Spain. Tall and slender, the 31-year-old bullfighter moves in the ring with an elegant, commanding presence. When he’s not dancing with bulls or stabbing them through the aorta, Uceda Leal is prone to giving introspective, rather philosophical answers to questions from the press.

“In life and in bullfighting, there are moments that are real trials by fire,” he told a reporter in 1999, “some of which you cannot imagine, but which raise you up as a person.”

Uceda Leal has experienced his share of those moments. Since July 25, 1991, when he wore his first traje de luces (suit of lights) in Mont de Marsan, France, he’s fought and killed more than 450 bulls in Spain and Latin America, and he’s seen members of his own cuadrilla (bullfighting squad) killed in the ring as well. He fights in about 30 to 40 corridas each year, and has won a good size collection of ears and tails — the traditional taurino measure of success in the ring. This year alone he has fought in 38 festivals against 78 bulls and won 47 orejas, according to his official web site. (Click here for stats on Uceda Leal, in Spanish.)

Like other 21st-century bullfighters, he walks a precarious line between fame and infamy — revered by passionate fans, on the one hand, who mob him like a rock star wherever he fights, and on the other hand, reviled by animal-rights activists who condemn him and his fellow toreros as asasinos (assasins). 

Given the intense public scrutiny he undergoes, Uceda Leal seeks solitude whenever his schedule permits. Last January he spent eight days walking the Camino de Santiago, Spain’s ancient  pilgrimage route, to prepare himself mentally and physically for the upcoming bullfight season in Latin America. 

Like many of the world’s top bullfighters, Uceda Leal dreams of winning the coveted Escapulario de Oro (Golden Cape), the prize given to the best (human) competitor in Lima’s Feria Taurino del Senor de los Milagros. The bullfight festival is held each October and November in the city’s historic Plaza de Acho, the oldest bullring in the Americas.

Uceda Leal came closer to realizing that dream when he fought in the opening corrida at Acho on November 2, winning one ear and the crowd’s roar of approval. Bullfighting critics praised him for his “classic” style in the ring, while fans outside the rueda pushed and shoved to have a glimpse of Uceda in his glittering red and gold suit.

On the afternoon before his fight, I met briefly with UcedaLeal over coffee at a restaurant inside the Plaza de Acho. Dressed in a tailored grey jacket and jeans, a day’s stubble on his cheeks, the torero answered my questions politely and seriously. I was struck by his thoughtfulness, his intelligence, and above all, by the coiled nervous energy that radiated from him. 

Uceda Leal talks over coffee to An American in Lima, Plaza de Acho, Nov. 1, 2008 (photo c. Jorge Vera)

What was your first bullfight like?

I was 12 when I fought my first bullfight in public. It made a deep impression on me – I knew when I faced the bull that this was my vocation. Little by little, I began to understand what one needs to master the art of bullfighting. I spent my whole youth doing this. I couldn’t do what the other young people my age were doing in their free time. I had to sacrifice, in order to train. It didn’t matter.

To become a torero – this is what I wanted.

What qualities does one need to be a great bullfighter?

Valor (courage), intelligence, artistic ability, a strong body, a good echurra (physique)

How many times have you fought in Latin America?

I have fought in many rings in Latin America  – in Mexico City, Bogota, Colombia, Quito. This is my first time in Lima.

How do the aficionados in Latin America differ from those in Spain?

Each plaza de toros has its own personality, its own type of crowd.  In Latin America, people are enthusiastic and come to the bullfights to enjoy. In Spain, they come to analyze the fight. The idea fan is a balance of the two: someone with great enthusiasm as well as keen analytical powers, who can appreciate fine bullfighting.

How popular is bullfighting in Spain lately?

Lately, the fiesta brava is la moda, in style. Suddenly, many young people are going. The women dress up in their finest outfits. There is a new crop of Spanish toreros who are revolutionizing the sport. It has made bullfighting popular again.

Male aficionados typically identify with the bullfighter in the ring. Why do you think women go to the bullfights?

Women go because they like to see a man facing death. Plus they like the show, the spectacle of it.

From my perspective, I appreciate having women in the audience. It is very nice to look out and see a good-looking woman (mujer guapa) in the stands. The sight inspires me to fight well.

What do you do to prepare for a bullfight?

All of us toreros have our special rituals. We pray to different saints. I have a collection of saints’ images that I carry with me.  Bullfighting is a very intimate experience. You need a lot of solitude beforehand, to prepare.

What is your ritual?

It’s a secret.

–Barbara R. Drake

Uceda Leal turns his back on his first bull in the Nov. 1, 2008 corrida, Feria Taurina del Senor de los Milagros, Plaza de Acho, Lima (photo by Jorge Vera)

No related posts.

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.