Crossing Cultures,  Looking Back at the United States,  Money, Economics, Politics

Should Americans Consider Moving to Peru? Part I

Today my opinion piece “Escaping the U.S. Credit Nightmare” appears in the Sunday Miami Herald, Money section (10/12/08).

The teaser reads: “An American who now lives in Peru finds that she no longer must fend off unwanted offers for credit cards and loans,” which highlights one of the unanticipated benefits I gained from our move to Lima last year.

That benefit might entice some overwhelmed Americans to consider moving to Peru to experience a reprieve from credit offers or to weather out the economic crisis. I’ve heard from several friends, and a few strangers, that the idea has crossed their minds in the last month.

Closing the door on a shipping container

Some of the comments have been made jokingly: “Hey, Barb, the way the economy’s going, we might all join you in Lima sooner or later.”

One longtime friend in Miami bluffs that she’s going to bring her husband and two kids – AND their three dogs and six cats.

I e-mailed her back: The dogs can stay out back with our Lab Lola. The cats – well, they might want to stay behind in Florida.

According to El Filósofo, people in parts of Peru eat cats. The dish is called seco de gato, a specialty of towns like Chincha and Canete (see link at bottom of post). I don’t think Fluffy and Butterscotch would feel at home in a country that serves their species for dinner.

Other inquiries from fellow Americans are more serious. How is the economy in Peru? How far does the dollar go? How does Peru compare to Uruguay, for instance, which has less poverty and a bigger middle class? Is it true that you can get a live-in maid for less than $200 a month? (Answer to maid question: yes.)

A graduate student at a Florida university recently e-mailed me to find out about job prospects in Peru. He’s casting his net wide: he’s also considering moving out West (U.S.), or to other countries in South America. Could I comment on the advantages of Peru versus the areas mentioned?

I’m mildly flattered that intelligent people are seeking my advice but I find it hard to give on this subject. Should a U.S. citizen consider moving to Peru to avoid the economic tsunami? Would he or she be better off or happier in a country like Peru?

I’ve been pondering those questions for the last several weeks, but my thoughts refused to coalesce. Then, after a conversation with another expat in Lima, I realized why I’d been unable to venture an opinion.

The expat I spoke with is a lovely woman, originally from Iceland, whom I met at a dinner party this past week. She lived for many years in the United States prior to moving to Lima so she knows the advantages of the American infrastructure (good roads, plentiful consumer goods, a history of political stability, a functioning legal system for those with money), something that many Peruvians haven’t experienced first-hand.

The Icelandic fashion designer and I got on the subject of moving from the United States to Peru and how enormous the move is, materially and psychologically. Does she find it hard to explain life in Peru to people back in the States, I asked? What does she say when Americans ask her which lifestyle is “better”?

The woman paused thoughtfully. Light from the candles on the table flickered in her pale blue eyes.

“You cannot compare Peru and the United States,” she said at last. “They are two different realities.”

A light bulb went off in my head. Different realities, I thought. Yes.

“You give up so much when you move from the United States to Peru,” she continued. “And you give up so many wonderful things when you leave Peru for the United States. You cannot compare them.”

Her assessment strikes me as truthful and insightful. Peru is so fundamentally unlike the United States that a Freshman 101 “compare and contrast” exercise boggles the mind. Apples and oranges, as the cliché goes. This is why I haven’t been able to properly answer people who want a clear-cut answer about Peru vs. the United States.

In contrast, it’s possible to analyze the quality of life in two cities in the United States, like Boston and San Francisco, and come up with an objective list of pros and cons. Such a list can help you decide whether a move to one or the other might benefit you.

Similarly, it’s possible to compare the American lifestyle with that in another developed country – say, in France or Switzerland – and to arrive at useful insights.

But the differences between Peru and the United States are so radical that objective comparisons fall apart. When you put the two countries side by side, the result is a series of extreme contrasts that makes the logical, decision-making center of your brain spin like a demagnetized compass.

What one sane person loves about Peru – say, being free of the U.S. consumer culture or being able to visit the Andes regularly – is another sane person’s nightmare (or occasion for altitude sickness). Given how many cherished features of daily life a typical American has to abandon when relocating to Peru, it’s hard for someone like me to make a one-size-fits-all recommendation.

Just what are some of the extreme differences that make Peru a “different reality” from the United States?

I’ll explore that in Part II of this post.

Links:

Pass the Cat Burgers (Guardian, Oct. 9, 2008): Animal rights activists are enraged over a cat-eating festival in Canete, Peru, reports Justine Hankins.

Escaping the U.S. Credit Nightmare (Miami Herald, Oct. 12, 2008), by Barbara R. Drake

I am an American writer who lived in Lima for seven years (2007-2014), where I covered Andean traditions, melting glaciers and daily life in the capital for Miami Herald, MSNBC and Huffington Post. I now live and work in northern Florida where I champion climate change advocacy and compassionate, affordable eldercare.

17 Comments

  • el "kibitzer"

    barbara,
    i love it! “a different reality”, it makes so much sense.
    for forty years i have been trying to explain the peruvian culture to americans.
    guess what? “a separate reality” author carlos cartaneda was peruvian.
    “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”
    please visit my humble blog “a peruvian in jersey”
    http://www.peruvianinjersey.com
    keep up the good work,
    el “kibitzer”
    ps. did i mention that i love your blog, belatedly, i tried voting for it.

  • Barb

    Welcome to the site, El Kibitzer and thanks for your comments and for trying to vote for my blog. That button no longer function and I should get rid of it. I’ll do that soon.

    I had heard that about Casteneda, but forgot about it. The “separate reality” he describes seems so out there, but when you’ve been in Peru a while (or were born here), you realize that things really are like that.

    Wow — 40 years of trying to explain that world to Americans. You should get a medal. 🙂

    A blog can be a great way to share that ‘separate reality’ with other people who are interested enough to seek out your site.

    I look forward to visiting A Peruvian in Jersey.

  • Miguel Fuentes

    Well, I believe it is true. Nevertheless, many people who have migrated to Peru have become very successful since independence times. For different reasons, not as many “natives”, have become successful or as successful.

    PS. Cats are only eaten in those 2 towns from what I can tell. I am Peruvian, and most Peruvians would consider eating cats disgusting, but I respect people who do it, because it’s part of their culture.

  • Barb

    Yes, Miguel, there are many foreign-born entrepreneurs who have started successful ventures in Peru. You need to have energy and persistence, though; Peru is a challenge.

    Re the cat-eating: that is another example of a rare cultural practice in Peru that the media seizes on and distorts into a story about “Another weird thing that Peruvians do.”

    You never see stories in the international media about pitucos eating ham sandwiches in Larco Mar and going to R.E.M. concerts, or families eating lomo saltado at a birthday party. That stuff is too “normal.”

    But let some guy set up a blender on a streetcorner and start selling frog milkshakes to a few passersby, and suddenly the reporters are all over it.

  • Ward Welvaert

    Hi Barb,

    I love your commentary in the Herald (sorry – a bit late catching up my reading). I also wrote a few notes on the current US economy on my blog and get occasional inquiries from friends in the US about moving South.

    On the flip side it bugs the heck out of me when I still hear many Peruvians talk about wanting to emigrate, especially my young students. Now I love the idea of traveling, learning other cultures or studying overseas, if you use the things you learn to improve life here in Peru.

    While there are still many challenges in Peru, I believe nowadays Peruvians can control their destiny, not escape from it. No longer should Peruvians think about ‘escaping’ poverty or terrorism, but take advantage of the opportunities and improve life down here.

  • Barb

    Thanks, Ward, for your comments on my piece.

    I agree with you that young Peruvians should embrace the opportunities in their country, rather than look to the U.S. (which isn’t welcoming immigrants with open arms at the moment). As you say, today’s Peruvians are in a position to help themselves and their country, a situation that didn’t exist 15 years ago.

    It sounds like you inspire your students, in addition to helping them learn English. 🙂

  • Miguel Fuentes

    Well, I was not talking about foreign-born today, but I was talking about the fact that throughout the history of Peru since its independence in 1821, people have migrated and become successful. For instance, Peruvians of Japanese, Chinese descent, or Peruvians of Italian, English, and German descent among others.

    Yes, I know, whatever can draw people’s attention, the media will be there to bring it up, such as people who eat cats, etc 🙂

  • Luis Martinez

    How hard would it be for a American that speaks little spanish to relocate. I would love to travel out of country. I just got out of serving 8 years in the U.S. Navy and I want to travel never been to Peru. Could a American who never been to Peru get a visa and work and live there?

  • Barb

    Luis, getting a work visa in Peru is tough for a foreigner, unless you have lined up work ahead of time (say, with the US Embassy or another employer) or if you marry a Peruvian.

    If you are interested in teaching English in Peru, check out The Ultimate Peru List (just google the whole phrase). Sharon, who runs that website, has all kind of very valuable, up to date information on surviving as a foreigner in Peru. It will give you an idea of what is possible here.

  • Millie

    Hi Barb,

    I am from Lima-Peru and have been living in Dallas TX since 1994 and have never gone back. For many reason I am being forced to go back to my country. But the problem is I have 2 kids of 13 and 11 years old. They are excellent students and not fluent in Spanish. I have been trying to find out american schools in Lima, but they are too expensive. Do you know if there are any schoolarships you can apply for? Can you tell me more about american students to go there to finish high school? I really do not want for them to get behind.

  • Barb

    Can someone help out Millie? I seem to remember that tuition at Colegio Roosevelt (the American school) is free for U.S. citizens — for the first kid. The second has to pay, but there is a discount.

    However, I may be wrong. Does anyone know?

    We know one couple who has one kid in Roosevelt and the second at the Union Church school (Christian, all-English-speaking). The tuition at Union Church isn’t as high as the 2nd kid’s tuition would be at Roosevelt. At least that’s how the parents explained it to us.

  • Astrid

    Tuition free for american children? I wish… not such thing. I do know however that Colegio Roosevelt, may offer partial scholarships for certain families that apply for it (you may need to qualify for it?). You need to inquire at the school.

  • jorge84

    Hi, i just read your blog, in one week i am moving back to Peru, ive been living in Miami for th past 6 years and well i was able to do a business over here, i came when i was 19 and do things i didnt even think on doing, but i did them, i have an online business and at my 25 i am what is call an entrepeneur, well i am tired of working hard and not being able to enjoy, stress is one of my problems, i know, some people could say 25 stress??? but when you are alone in a country that basically is not yours and even tho you can be a legal person who is able to work, IS STILL NOT MY COUNTRY, on november the 28 i am moving back to peru, i sold everything, i will start i guess i new life in my country but i am a bit scared, even tho i wont depend on anyone because my business is basically online and it gives a good amount of money to live anywhere but still i am afraid of how people will treat a person , every time i visited my country they treated me like a tourist, and is because my spanish has a cuban/colombian accent, i know that will go away as soon as i start socialing with friends again but my business is basically english and some words will come out, at the same time i have no idea what to take, is a bit scary knowing USA is a “free country” and improved in many ways, and even tho Lima has grown with the time and is much better, i am afraid ill be in shock, one thing is being a tourist and other thing is living over there. Lets see what happens, i will tell you on december once i get my apartment and everything and let you know what are my feelings about it.

  • Alberto

    Barb, you couldn’t explain better the difference between Peru and USA, thats how i explaing that to my wife and daughters. Thats simple is DIFFERENT buildings, cars, people, food, etc.
    We went to Peru in March and she know the reality of how to live in Lima .the relationgship with family still strong , that was something that she got impress, all the family together on sundays in comparison to here. it has to be a birthday for her mom to visit her grandaughters.
    We are considering moving to Peru….

  • Jenn

    I moved from the US to work for a non-profit in Piura, Peru. I’ve always wanted to live outside of the US. This opportunity was offered to me last summer. I accepted as long as I could sell my house, which I was able to do in about 4 months!

    I love being down here. It’s nice not to worry about how the economy is going to affect my assets. It’s a simpler life. But you’re right, it’s too different realities. The grocery stores don’t offer the same selection.

    I moved down here for a simpler life and I found it. If an American wants to move here for a “better” life, it’s all in their definition.

    I am still trying to decide if my dog could make it down here and like it? She’s currently living with my parents in the States. Did you bring your lab with you? Did your lab need to stay in quarantine for a while? Any advice on that would be amazing!

  • Rick K

    I live in Miami with my wonderful wife. We are selling our house and moving to Peru. At first I loved the idea as I have been to Peru probably 10 times. But I am in Peru now and I realize that I will not be visiting in the future this will be my home. I do not speak Spanish yet but will have to learn though it might be tough. I have an American job that I will keep and commute back and forth to the states. I am feeling fearful now realizing how much I am giving up in the states to move to Peru. I like Peru but its not the states. The economy in the states have pushed our plans up about 8 years. I am 56 and worried about my retirement. I do not see things getting much better in the states for at least 5 more years. So I am really confused. My wife wants to move back to be with her family and I am not ready since I am active in business in the states.

  • diana

    I am 45singl. woman who is considering a move 2 Peru. I am wondering if Iwill be ok there without Family/friends? I get social security for a disbiliy i have,will I still be able to continue to recieve that deposit? If anyone knows and can help me, i will be very greatfull. Thankyou all, Diana