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Valley of Santa Eulalia, Peru, which has sun, big rocks and amazing avocado ice cream

There is no sun in Lima during the South American winter. No shifting light. No shadows. No way to tell 8 a.m. from 5 p.m.

Just a flat grey sky that stays put, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective japan, like lint in the dryer basket.

I wrote about this yesterday in "Panzo de Burro" and now I'm at it again, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective. This week I'm writing about the weather in Lima because it defines the city. And like many elemental things, it goes unnoticed but influences nearly everything.

The sunless Lima winter is strange, bordering on freakish, 100mg Generic Synthroid Not As Effective. Surviving a Lima winter is like living on another planet -- a planet where there is no sun, only a weak light reflected from, say, another moon. Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, But since there is sunlight in Lima from December through March, Limenos know that there's a sun up there, and they cling to that knowledge. 50mg Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, The sun will come back, the Limenos think. It will, it will.

Sunlight is always in the back of a Limeno's mind.

Thus on the rare winter's day when the sun does poke through for a few hours, 200mg Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, Limenos act in a way that strikes outsiders as exaggerated. Que rico, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective. El sol! they'll exclaim, their voices high-pitched and giddy.

The que ricos! go on for a while; the Limenos are smiling; they're laughing; they're hysterical. 250mg Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, These are people who haven't seen a crack of sunlight in six weeks.

A few hours later, the sun disappears into the garua fog, the shadows fade into the sidewalk, Limenos retreat into their normally sombre demeanors. Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, I know this because I have watched El Fotografo's relatives undergo this transformation. The first time was in 2000, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective india, when we were visiting from Florida for a few weeks. I didn't understand at the time what was going on. I thought that perhaps some of the relatives were bipolar.

Now that I have lived through one Lima winter and am enduring a second, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective japan, I have more insight. Their (my) reaction isn't a sign of mental imbalance; it's a natural reaction to being given a sudden reprive from months of sunlight deprivation, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective. The response probably has a clinical name. It's about sunlight and the pituarity gland and maybe the release of yet-unnamed hormones.

We are desperately seeking sunlight.

The place where EF, EH and I visited this weekend is called Santa Eulalia, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective canada, an impossible word for a gringa to pronounce: ay-oo-LAH-lee-ah. Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, It sounds like someone gargling.

Why does one go to Santa Eulalia-ia-ia.  To feel sunlight on one's face.

(Actually, 50mg Generic Synthroid Not As Effective, it's also a magnet for bird-lovers, something I didn't know on Friday when I posted "Extreme Bird Love, That" prior to leaving Lima for the weekend. Santa Eulalia also is home to a center for training Peace Corps volunteers.)

The town of Santa Eulalia is about an hour and a half east of Lima. Getting there involves nagivating horrific traffic and barren stretches of highway, and dust, dust, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective uk, dust everywhere. Once you get to Eulalia, there's more dust; however, there are bougainvilla poking over the fences and so it is a picturesque dust, Generic Synthroid Not As Effective.

Up bumpy roads and past concrete brick compounds, tall eucalyptus trees bathed in dust, dusty dogs barking dry coughs, roadside stands with local women selling homemade avocado ice cream (!), dust on the seats where you sit to eat the ice cream.

At the end of a 20-minute climb up a dirt/dust/rock road, there is the very nice house that you rent with a bunch of people, and everyone is saying Que linda!

Because it is. It's in the sunlight. It's shining on everything. You can see your shadow and you feel human again.

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Diflucan During Pregnancy, This past weekend El Fotógrafo, El Híjo and I fled Lima for a weekend in the country. I use "fled" literally: we were suffering physically and emotionally from the effects of Lima's damp, grey winter, which lasts from April through November. (The above photo by blogger "El Tonto de la Colina" illustrates how oppressively foggy the Lima winter can be.)

People who've lived here know how awful the season is:

1. The sun disappears almost completely. The sky is the same dead grey color, from 8 in the morning to 6 at night.


2. A strange weather condition called garua invades the city. Garua is a damp, Diflucan During Pregnancy usa, cold mist that hangs in the air like a cobweb and turns the sidewalks into slippery deathtraps.


3. It never truly rains, however, so the dirt and soot don't wash away. Buildings, plants, cars, street signs – everything is covered in layers of dust (polvo) made moist by the garua.


4. Humidity levels climb during winter, intensifying the cold, Diflucan During Pregnancy. As the months wear on, the chill creeps deep into the marrow of your bones, until you feel like an old carrot left in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator.

Sounds lovely, Diflucan During Pregnancy overseas, doesn't it.

I am not the only person who hates Lima's winter. Plenty of people get worked up about it – residents, visitors, and especially writers. (Some do like it, I should add.)

The latest edition of the literary magazine Etiqueta Negra (Black Label) features a two-page essay on Lima's grey sky paired with a sister article on the brilliant blue skies of Guatemala City. Diflucan During Pregnancy, What a contrast between the two cities (although they do share similar histories of urban violence and civil warfare).

The American writer Herman Melville (1819-1891) was horrorstruck by the city's climate, Diflucan During Pregnancy paypal. He called Lima "the saddest city on earth," a quote that gets recycled frequently in articles and guidebooks.

The contemporary Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa also hates Lima in the winter. He calls it "Lima, la horrible," after a book of essays by that name by Peruvian poet and playwright Sebastián Salazar Bondy. (Thanks to Ricardo for pointing out that connection between Vargas Llosa and Salazar Bondy), Diflucan During Pregnancy. 100mg Diflucan During Pregnancy, According to my friend Ariel Segal, a Venezuelan reporter and scholar living in Lima, Vargas Llosa's distaste for the city's weather and grime is tied in with his disgust with Lima's rigid class system, which fosters antagonism between rich and poor.  You can see those frictions at work in Conversation in the Cathedral (1969), a novel set in Lima.

Paradoxically, the ugliness of Lima's winter climate seems to inspire writers to write more. (See El Tonto de la Colina's "defense of la garua, 500mg Diflucan During Pregnancy," posted in July 2007).

For instance, when I mentioned to Ariel last week that I was thinking of blogging about la garua, he blasted off a lengthy email to me, all on the subject of Lima's weather. Diflucan During Pregnancy, It's full of puns and musical references to "clouds" and "rain." Rather than botch things up by paraphrasing, I'll end this post by quoting Ariel's free-associations in full:

Dear Barbara:

"You must not blame me if I do talk to the clouds."
-- Henry David Thoreau
 
I don't know why Lima's sky is so cloudy and grey for half a year or more – there must be meteorological explanations. It would be interesting to find out why. Diflucan During Pregnancy mexico, Like all cities in the world, Lima has some very charming and beautiful places; however, for many months it is quite gloomy because of the cloudy grey sky, with occasional weak showers that the Limeños call "rain" ("What a big rain we had yesterday!" people will say).

Some people call that sky panza de burro (donkey's belly) because of its light-grey color.

I would like to share with the readers of An American in Lima my own production of "The Lima Blues" and invite everyone to get to know the city's version of The Blues Brothers -- "The Garua Guys," autistic/artistic inhabitants of a city where sunlight is luxury (maybe that is why Peru's currency is called the sol, so people can mention that word every day of the year?), 10mg Diflucan During Pregnancy. People who find it hard to imagine themselves in heaven ("I'm in Heaven") because they can hardly see the sky through the clouds, Diflucan During Pregnancy.

For example, if you want to want to dance like Gene Kelly in Lima, you better get a stick, instead of an umbrella. Instead of "Singin' in the Rain," you can "Cantas bajo la Garua"; however, 30mg Diflucan During Pregnancy, you won't be soaked at the end of your performance. You'll just be slightly damp.
 
While in Lima you certainly can sing "Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head" and dream of building a "Stairway to Heaven" so you can "Walk in the Clouds," most likely, like Bryan Addams, you'll discover that "I'm finding it's hard to believe/ We're in heaven."
 
That's Lima for you.

If you want to read more by Ariel Segal in Spanish, click here. He writes a regular column for the newspaper Peru21 Diflucan During Pregnancy, .

Ariel also is the author of Jews of the Amazon: Self-Exile in Earthly Paradise (JPS, Diflucan During Pregnancy australia, 1999), a fascinating nonfiction account of his encounters with descendents of Jewish rubber barons who sired children in the Amazon in the early 1900s. Ariel describes his fieldwork as a doctoral candidate in the jungle city of Iquitos, where Jewish traditions mingle with Catholic beliefs and native Amazonian practices. I confess that I am partial to this book because I helped edit an early draft of it, but I'm not its only fan: it got excellent reviews from Publisher's Weekly and the Miami Herald, 250mg Diflucan During Pregnancy, among other review publications.

One of the surprises in the book is Ariel's discovery that because he's Jewish, some of the indigenous women view him as a sex symbol. The turn-of-the-century businessmen who established profitable rubber businesses in the Amazon also sired children with the local women; when the Jewish men returned to their homes in Morocco, they left behind children named Saul and David, as well as a collective memory of the Jewish male as successful and virile.

Ariel wasn't aware of that such a perception had been fostered among certain women of Iquitos; some of the funniest moments in Jews of the Amazon take place when self-deprecating Ariel (who describes himself as a Venezuelan Woody Allen) is interrupted in his nighttime studies by knocks on the door from attractive young women who are aroused by the news that a Jewish "doctor" is in their midst.

Can Ariel maintain his scholar's objectivity when the beautiful locals are eagerly studying him.

Buy the book and find out.

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