It’s June 4, and that means winter here in Lima. Back in northern Florida, where we lived for six years, I’d be wearing short and turning on the AC this time of year. Strange to be pulling out the winter jackets and wool pants, but I have to: Lima esta frio! (Did I mention? None of the houses here has central heating. It’s like centuries of building practices have passed the country by.)
To stay warm, Limenos pile on layers of shirts and chompas. The stores are full of them now, made of alpaca and sheep’s wool. The big department store Sagafallabella is pushing chompas like crazy. When you walk in the entrance of the Miraflores store, your eye is besieged by a flotilla of “chompa” signs flying overhead, like the one above.
Is it just me, or isn’t she really creepy?
9 responses so far ↓
1 Lola // Jun 20, 2008 at 6:03 pm
Very creepy.
Is the blog “A Dark Night in Lima/Noche Oscura en Lima” still up?
http://blog.barbaradrake.net
2 clementine mandarine // Aug 7, 2008 at 8:37 pm
i don’t having central heating is necessary in lima. the truth is, it is not that cold. it doesn’t get colder than 55, and that’s exaggerating a bit.
that’s something that a few extra blankets can easily take care of! plus it’s better for the planet…
i had to say this because your assertion that “It’s like centuries of building practices have passed the country by” really feels a little ignorant and orientalist (in the way that edward said explained this term)
3 Barb // Aug 8, 2008 at 9:21 am
To each her own, Clementine! It appears that you’ve grown up in Lima, so your body is adjusted to the cold dampness here. I envy you, now that I live here. Maybe in a few more years I will feel less uncomfortable in the winter.
As far as my comment being “ignorant” and “orientalist,” I would disagree. Peruvian homes lack not only central heating, but built-in radiators (which you find in turn-of-the-century homes throughout the world, including the Soviet Union). Steam heat is ecological. Peruvian homes also lack threshholds at the doors, which has been a basic building practice for centuries. Issues like that prompted my comment about building practices.
The plus side, as you say, about Peruvian homes lacking some developed-world amenities is that people here consume less energy at home. I agree — that is good for the planet. Now that energy sources are being so expensive, countries like the U.S. can take a few tips from places like Peru.
4 Bob Houghton // Aug 13, 2008 at 6:06 pm
Thanks for bringing back so many memories of my times visiting Lima and Perú. From 1997 to the end of 1999 I was dating a woman who lived in Breña and spent lots of time wandering the streets and parks, eating and cooking the local food and learning that particular dialect of Andino Spanish found in Lima. I found your site by accident when seeing if Perú was sending a contingent to Beijing. Keep bringing back those memories! Buena suerte amiga y saludos de la Canadá.
Bob
PS-I believe that “chompa” is a Spanglicization of the British word “jumper”, as they refer to the same garment.
5 Barb // Aug 13, 2008 at 6:46 pm
Thanks for visiting the blog, Bob Houghton. Glad I could bring back some memories — hope they are mostly sweet ones.
Stop by any time to add your 2 cents/centimos.
I do think that the British pronunciation of “jumper” Spanglicizes to “chompa” pretty easily, as you and my British friend Henk point out.
I was confused because Americans pronounce the -er in “jumper” with a hard “r” sound, not the British “ah” sound.
6 Teresa // Aug 13, 2008 at 9:50 pm
Yep, she’s creepy. She looks like one of those porcelain dolls.
I prefer “chompa” over “suéter.”
7 Barb // Aug 13, 2008 at 10:00 pm
Glad I’m not the only one bothered by this Saga ad.
8 Rosa // Aug 19, 2008 at 10:15 pm
I finally went to Peru in 2006 and I am used to low air conditioning settings but I was freezing in Lima. Fifty-five degrees in Lima does not feel like 55 in Miami. I was miserable I had on a wool coat, gloves and silk underwear and couldn’t manage. I think the altitude might be the culprit for the chill.
9 Barb // Aug 20, 2008 at 9:45 am
“Fifty-five degrees in Lima does not feel like 55 in Miami” — I hear you, Rosa! The chill gets into your bones in the most awful way here. What’s strange is that Miami is very humid, like Lima, so you’d think the chill would be similar. Maybe the problem is that there is no sun here in winter.
Slowly I am learning how to dress in layers and wear little half-gloves all day, so I can stay warm and not feel like a momia.
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